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Painting sequence

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Bob Claffie

Bob Claffie

Jedi Knight
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What is the concensus on painting. Is it better to paint it unassembled or all together? Since I will have to reassemble the car alone, I am worried about scratching through clumsyness or mis-adventure. Also, I bought the fender bead from VB and they are NOT chrome ! Can I leave them "natural" or paint them body color. Thanks, Bob
 
Paint all the panels separately. Carefully reassemble the car. The fender beads are not chrome they are SS and can be polished. Be sure you have removed the protective cover on them and place tape over the tangs when assembling to prevent scratching the painted surfaces. Hanging doors, tape all the edges and those of the adjacent front and rear fender so no chipping. For the bonnet and the boot lid as well as the shroud if you have it removed will require an assistant---Fwiw---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Not sure if it makes a lot of difference these days with modern paint, but it might be a good idea to let the paint cure for a while before taping the fresh paint. Well stuck tape might lift uncured paint. While this topic has been discussed before, it's also a good idea to assemble the doors and body panels onto a complete running chassis before painting to ensure proper fit, then disassemble for painting.
 
Dont think it was done to mine on reassembly, but my panel guy showed me photos of what they used to do at RR, was to use masking tape over the painted areas so as to reduce bimettalic action, cheap and effective!
 
Darn, you guys, everything I didn't want to hear. I wasn't planning on a test fit, being a card carrying corner cutter, but now I feel ashamed of myself so I will do it. Likewise even after I tried one of the bead trim pieces for size I didn't even realize it had a protective layer on it! I kind of agree with Cutlass about the masking tape danger but a pro painter told me when they stripe or two tone a car they mask as little as three hours after painting. I think it's how long you leave it on rather than how soon you put it on. Still haven't decided which way to go but appreciate the input. Thanks, Bob
 
There are more than one type of masking tape. The paper and adhesive both vary. I'd use the kind the body shops use for the two tone masking, and remove it carefully, drawing it over itself. The test fit, IMHO, is essential, especially if any chassis work was done. And you don't have to put in every fastener to ensure that the panels, doors, etc. fit. When I finished my chassis repair, I assembled the entire car, less interior, wiring, brakes,etc., and had the whole thing placed on a frame machine and tweaked until the panels, doors, etc. fit. Then disassembled it to the bare chassis before paint, now am starting to reassemble with restored or new parts. I did the same thing with my now fully restored MGB, with great results. I wouldn't do it any other way. Especially with such a relatively rare car. Yeah its more work, but this is the fun part.
 
No Bob, There is no problem with the masking tape .Obviously you can not assemble the parts if they are not fully dried or cured depending on the type of paint used.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
I am quite lucky. This car was a New England rusty hulk. The PO treated it as a labor of love. The chassis was totally restored and all mechanical components rebuilt or renewed. The body had all the required patch panels welded in. At this point he retired and sold the car. I began finishing the car about a year ago and it required rewiring, a complete interior and the body finished and reassembled plus painting along with a thousand other "little" details. At this point it starts, steers, and stops. The electrics are finished, dash restored and the finish line is in sight. Have to twist my arm once in a while to keep from rushing too much. Shooting for spring rebirth. Bob
 
[ QUOTE ]
Don't think it was done to mine on reassembly, but my panel guy showed me photos of what they used to do at RR, was to use masking tape over the painted areas so as to reduce bimettalic action, cheap and effective!

[/ QUOTE ]

Zblu, more Irish Whispers, Yes it was cheap but not effective. The fasteners [Nuts, Bolts and screws] have to penetrate both surfaces they were just wasting their time and were prolly proteges of Lucas.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
When there are two different type metals in electrical contact & an electrolyte is present, there will be a current flow between the two metals & the metal which has the higher electrode potential will corrode. Winter road salt in water is a typical electrolyte. The typical electrode potentials of metals in salt water are; Stainless steel 0.1, steel 0.65, aluminum 0.8, zinc 1.0.

In the case of the Austin-Healey which has aluminum panels bolted to steel, there will always be a current flow between the two metals in contact, if moisture is present, & some degree of galvanic corrosion of the aluminum will occur. Probably the best you can do is try to prevent metal to metal contact, (provide electrical insulation) with a "good" paint coating on the surfaces. The presence of the stainless steel beading in the joint makes things even worse.

Good paint coatings on the bolts, nuts, & washers will help a bit. The paint coating between panels & between panels & FASTENERS will help a lot. Even masking tape between the joints "might" help preserve the paint barrier. The LESS the areas in electrical contact, the less corrosion.

A zinc strip between the two metals would serve as a sacrificial anode & be corroded before the steel & aluminum.

It's possible that a seam sealer such as 3M "Fast'n Firm" might also help by keeping the water out, but I haven't tried it on fender to body joints or their hardware. It works very well on floor panels.

If the car happens to be in a relatively dry climate there isn't so much problem to begin with. Best protection is to not put it away wet. The factory never intended for the cars to last 40 plus years.
D
 
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