Painting engine block

[prb51]

An interesting glyptal note as I googled it.
Smokey Yunnick (NASCAR) used it to port/polish intakes. At the time there was a rule against polishing so he'd paint light coats of Glyptal in those areas to 'polish' them until they made the rule you couldn't do that either.

 

[2wrench]

Here is the Q/A on Metal Ready, which does have phosphoric acid and zinc phosphates in it. You need to remove the film prior to applying any type of paint or it will eventually lift or blister. I usually wipe it with a damp cloth before it dries, then as said before, scuff it and wipe clean.
It may take awhile, but it will lift your paint...Ask me how I know.

Also, care must be taken to not use self etching primer over phosphoric acid treated metal.


https://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/metal%20ready%20q%20and%20a%20sheet.pdf

Thank you, Ray, for correcting me. To any and all, I must
apologize if I have sent you in a wrong direction. I seem
to remember quite clearly the distributor advising, after
rinsing/wiping with water or wet rag, to leave and paint over whatever is there as it is deisrable, i.e., a white
powdery film/zinc coating.
Directions sound quite to the contrary and I can have nothing more to say except I am sorry if I have pointed
you in a wrong direction. I was most sincere, but
evidently, mistaken, from the looks of these directions.

 

[2wrench]

I may have to recant my recant. Read and consider
the following verbiage from the POR-15 web site,
Metal Ready product page, particularly.

METAL-READY provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion. After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe METAL-READYTM to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal. This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-READYTM is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable.

Note the words beginnning the fourth line: -- "while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel."

Now view the picture from that web page that shows
a piece of metal treated with Metal Ready. Notice the
white residue on the metal? That's the desirable white
zinc coating that should be painted over.

So if improperly applied, i.e., full strength and
not rinsed with water or wiped "off" with a wet rag, as directed, leaves a white powder residue that is not desirable; but, if applied correctly; i.e.,
applied full strength then rinsed with a hose or wiped
with a wet rag, should result with a thin white
coating that is the zinc phosphate coating that is to
be left on and painted over.

Whewwww.

Metal Ready applied and not diluted by hosing off
or wiping with wet rag results undesirable, too thick
white powder...not good.

Metal Ready applied and diluted by hosing off; wiping
with a wet rag (to dilute) results in thin, white
coating of zinc phosphate (good) which is there to do
a job, and intended to be painted over.

That's what I think and I hope I'm right because it
is confusing, from their literature, and can cause
a lot of heartache by someone not appreciating the subtle
distinction and noteworthy difference.

This is a clarification made to me by a POR vendor,
but it has been some time and I needed recollection
refreshed.

To all who read, beware, because I do not claim to be
an expert, but I still do believe this to be correct.

 

[Norton47]

2wrench
I came to the same conclusion you did. That's what I meant by to much powder. I must not have diluted or rinsed enough after applying the metal ready and I got a heavy coat of residual powder. I knocked this off until a bush over would not raise a dust cloud so to speak.
Other metal I have treated has changed after treatment. The shiny bare clean areas, dull and get a faint silvery white appearance (zincish) and the rusty area may develop a heavier white deposit, that stays after wiping. But if there is powder that is loose to the touch, I think it has to come off.

 

[2wrench]

Yeah. I find their instructions in this regard to be
somewhat lacking.

I must be a British Car Forum junkie. Man, I check in
constantly. Can't sleep? Check out the Forum.
If I could check the Forum in my sleep, I just might
find myself doing so. Scarey.

 

[Norton47]

Yeah, I hear ya. I find myself doing the same thing. I forgot to log out last night and here I am this AM, checking to see what's up.
I think I will start putting the engine together today. I got the dash done to the point I am putting finish on. More in the next progress report.