-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Painting 1275 engine - Questions
- Thread starter Bruce_B
- Start date
Share this page
OP
Bruce_B
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Thanks for the great information. Not sure of the color I'll be using but I do like the suggestion of using POR-15 paint. I've used their product before on others cars and it is great stuff.
I'll make sure and post pictures when the time comes.
Enjoy the Holiday weekend everyone!
I'll make sure and post pictures when the time comes.
Enjoy the Holiday weekend everyone!
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
I do this pretty often as a engine builder, here's the main advice I would give you, if you use any solvent on block or painted parts of the engine, give it some time to evaporate off the part before you start painting or you will get a paint reaction and have to re-do. I also paint every part individually before assembly, I think this is a nice touch, I use grade 8 hardware on my engine, and I think it looks alot better and detailed than just painting everything after you are assembled.
Attachments
My engine was (is) painted like that "detroit diesel blue" from Duplicolor. It was not very pretty with a healey green transmission and rusty engine compartment. I need to decide on my engine colors in the coming weeks, too. I've never really liked the drab look of healey green. As a kid, I think I painted too many of my model airplanes a similar color of olive drab and now it has taken its toll on me. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I wonder if aluminum colored paint on the engine/trans would look nice and clean, or more like one big sparkling hunk of metal.
Mark
Mark
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
62Migit said:
Mark use Dupli-Color #DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum, it's a 500 degree engine paint, it's spot on for new cast aluminum, unlike the silver or regular aluminum paints you see, I use DE 1650 all the time, it's good stuff and most all parts stores have in on the shelf. I use it on tranny cases, when thay get stained looking and also I use it carb linkages on my rebuild carbs. I don't use mettalic onmthe engines if I can help it. I think POR15 Olive green paint is nice, same color as Jack shows above is nice on a street Spridget. If you get Moss's paint, make sure to use Duplicolor engine clear over it, Moss paint will streak if and coolant gets near it, the clear will seal it and not let it streak. Moss' color are dead on but it will streak for sure if not saled with clear.
Thanks, Hap!
Some POR-15 questions:
How much does it take to do an engine?
Does it look acceptable when brushed onto a smooth surface, or does everyone spray things like valve covers?
To spray, it's thinned with mineral spirits?
Thanks,
Mark
EDIT: on the POR-15 website, does "Austin Healey Green" on the colorchart match "BMC Green" in the dropdown box?
Some POR-15 questions:
How much does it take to do an engine?
Does it look acceptable when brushed onto a smooth surface, or does everyone spray things like valve covers?
To spray, it's thinned with mineral spirits?
Thanks,
Mark
EDIT: on the POR-15 website, does "Austin Healey Green" on the colorchart match "BMC Green" in the dropdown box?
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
Mine has two, they are self releasing.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
Mark (62Migit), in answer to your POR questions....
One pint will probably do two A-series engines and trannys.
This POR product is VERY thick enamel, it's not the rust treatment product/paint. It brushes very well on cast iron but it will look nasty brushed onto valve covers. My comments about thinning with mineral spirits are based on personal experience.
You can thin the POR engine enamel with POR solvent and it will spray OK if you only want one thin coat. If you want two coats or more, use mineral spirits and put the subsequent coats on while the part is still tacky but not bone dry. Using POR solvent WILL result in the paint lifting and wrinkling when additional coats are applied. Even using mineral spirits the paint can wrinkle if you wait too long for the second coat. However, the wrinkling with mineral spirits is minimal and can be rubbed and buffed out later if necessary (think valve cover).
As for the color listings on their web site... I'm sure you're aware that BMC was the parent company of Austin/Morris. I think POR originally formulated this paint for the Austin-Healey engines before they realized it was applicable to several BMC cars from the early to mid-1960s.
One pint will probably do two A-series engines and trannys.
This POR product is VERY thick enamel, it's not the rust treatment product/paint. It brushes very well on cast iron but it will look nasty brushed onto valve covers. My comments about thinning with mineral spirits are based on personal experience.
You can thin the POR engine enamel with POR solvent and it will spray OK if you only want one thin coat. If you want two coats or more, use mineral spirits and put the subsequent coats on while the part is still tacky but not bone dry. Using POR solvent WILL result in the paint lifting and wrinkling when additional coats are applied. Even using mineral spirits the paint can wrinkle if you wait too long for the second coat. However, the wrinkling with mineral spirits is minimal and can be rubbed and buffed out later if necessary (think valve cover).
As for the color listings on their web site... I'm sure you're aware that BMC was the parent company of Austin/Morris. I think POR originally formulated this paint for the Austin-Healey engines before they realized it was applicable to several BMC cars from the early to mid-1960s.
bugimike
Yoda
Offline
GB1 said:
If you guys look at where the one you have attaches to the body, you will find a corresponding "ear" to match on the other side (unless it has been cut off!), and as everyone above has said, they are self releasing (if not they need lubricating!). A little upward lift, and down she goes!!
