paint

[sundown]

I am going to attempt to paint my TR6 what type of paint will do the best job, the color is going to be white (more forgiving of the body imperfections)

 

[Anthony_S]

May I add to this question....What works well for touch up spots, like chips in the paint or small scratches.

 

[CJD]

Glaserit is still the best. It is hard as a rock, but costs a King's fortune! PPG and Dupont have very nice lines that are available in many auto paint supply stores. I avoid Sherwin Williams automotive line of paints.

JMHO.

John

 

[TFB]

I think for type it comes down to single stage Urethane,or base coat clear coat systems.Acryic enamel or lacuqer are probably not what you want.
I am using ppg concet ss urethane,but the bccc is far more common,some say more forgiving for the ametuer painter,and althought I think it is too shiny for a period look,seems to be what most retorers use.People now expect to see that shiny wet look that modern cars have.
I would also recomment a fresh air supply,even if your painting outside.I got a nice turbine setup for 400,much better than trying to hold your breath.
Have Fun Tom

 

[tr8todd]

I've had real good luck with the paint NAPA sells. It's fairly inexpensive, especially if you pick a fleet color. The last time I painted white, I went with Ford superperformance white. It came out so bright that I scuffed it with some 1200 grit to dull it down.

 

[hondo402000]

My opinion, what ever paint manufacturer you pick, just make sure you stick with that painting system thru the whole process, from metal etching primer, primer, primer surfacer, reducers, hardners and top coat. dont intermingle primers from one manufacturer with another manufacturers top coat or you will have problems. Read the directions carefully and over and over. When you spray your top coat purchase the paint and reducer that day, at least the reducer, there are temperature ranges for the reducers. Like if you spray on a day thats 80 degrees out side you need a reducer for that temp range.

and if you have any body work and use plastic fillers, some require it go on bare metal, others you can use over primed surfaces. Read the Directions and mix it correctly. Most good body shops say your car should sit for a month or more after the body work is done to let the filler set really good. then a final coat of primer surfacer block sand with a gide coat, wet sand with 800, tape, tack rag and spray. The painting is the easy part, the hard part is getting there

and dont ever use those primers from the local auto parts stores to spot prime if you sand thru your primer coat to bare metal. again get a can of primer like SEMS from the place you get your paint. you will save yourself a lot of headaches

I know

Hondo

 

[tdskip]

My opinion, what ever paint manufacturer you pick, just make sure you stick with that painting system thru the whole process, from metal etching primer, primer, primer surfacer, reducers, hardners and top coat. dont intermingle primers from one manufacturer with another manufacturers top coat or you will have problems.

That is very good advice.

 

[DougF]

An exception to that rule is a product called Rust Defender. A couple customers of mine put out phenomenal paint jobs using it. It serves as a basecoat/filler primer and sealer and is compatible with most paints on the market today. Once dry and sanded for paint, it doesn't shrink and is easy to use.

But when you buy a gallon, that is what you have to use. The catalyst is in a small toothpaste type tube.

Off hand, I don't remember the manufacturer's name and by that, you can guess that I have no afilliation with the product. Just strong references.

Check your paint supplier for availability and answers to any questions.

 

[billspit]

A gallon of Rust Defender is $476. It does come in quarts.

 

[dklawson]

I have used paints from DuPont, PPG, and TCP Global. All are good. I spray two-component, single-stage urethane. To a degree, you can spray this like you used to spray lacquer... outside under an awning. After a 24 hour cure time you can wet sand and buff the urethane paint so any imperfections and/or dirt are removed and with care you can develop a mirror finish.

The TCP Global is good paint if you are on a budget. It sprays similar to PPG. If you select from their "fleet" colors the paint is very economical. However, TCP will mix to any standard paint code if you want.

As above, stick with supplied from one manufacturer to insure compatibility.

Also above, the subject of repair and touch-up was raised. Urethanes can be repaired and touched up but it is quite likely that the repair will show up... if not initially, over time. Lacquer is by far the easiest to touch-up but not many people use it anymore. Acrylic enamel is not too hard to touch-up and my personal opinion is that the repairs with acrylic enamel are often well blended.

 

[Anthony_S]

So on the touch up issue, what would the original paint be. My TR has the original paint job and there are some chips here and there and minor scratch or two that would be nice to cover so the bare metal isn't exposed. Would I use an Acrylic enamel? Is it something I would spray on?

 

[71tr]

I painted my TR6 using Interlux Brightside marine paint. A single stage polyurethane paint designed for boat hulls. They have their own system that includes a base etch primer, full-on primer and then 2-3 topcoats. Can be sprayed or get this, even rolled on. It flows well and is very durable, available in a number of colors many that match original Triumph paint. I chose the off-white which has a nice creamy color and is very forgiving.

 

[dklawson]

So on the touch up issue, what would the original paint be. My TR has the original paint job and there are some chips here and there and minor scratch or two that would be nice to cover so the bare metal isn't exposed. Would I use an Acrylic enamel? Is it something I would spray on?

I would expect original factory paint from the 1960s to be an enamel but I cannot state that with 100% confidence.

If you are just going to do touch-up painting you are in a difficult situation. The smallest quantity most paint suppliers will mix is probably a pint of color. Buying 1 pint and the associated chemicals can get expensive. If you give the supplier the OEM paint code they will mix to that but it is likely that your car's original paint will have patina that will not match the new touch-up paint. If you take in a small panel with the original paint to your supplier they may be willing to spend time mixing to match.

Most automotive paints are designed to spray. For small areas, you can get surprisingly good results from a small, cheap air brush. If that is too daunting, you can fill the small chips and scratches with a brush. After the paint dries you can use 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper to sand the color coat and then buff the paint so it blends in.

 

[DougF]

Rust Defender has evidently gone up a little in price. When I bought a gallon 2 years ago, it was $120.

 

[justin_mercier]

As mentioned above, the primary concern when painting should be your own safety. A good air supply can add years to your life, quite literally. Modern paints tend to be glossier than the early enamels, but I think they still look great. They do make your body work and any imperfections show up easier though. Don't skimp on prep-work. Proper prep is the key to proper paint.

 

[hondo402000]

Hey Sundown
how inclusive are you going to paint, and I mean are you just going to wet sand the current paint job, repair any minor dings, dents and chips, tape up everything on the car, prime and shoot the color coat, OR are you going to take the car down to bare matal, remove all the ancillary pieces, like bumpers, head lights, windscreens door handles, the top and tail lamp fixtures, fix any rusted metal by weld repairing pannels and holes redo any body work and then repaint?

If it doenst have too many paint jobs on it and its fairly straight and you are painting the same color white, you maybe just be able to do the less intensive paint job, and you should be able to wet sand the car in a good weekend, prime and paint and be done in less than 3 weeks, the good thing about paint systems now is they are all 2 part so you can prime and in 4 hours wet sand and keep going.

When I painted my TR6 it started out as painting the hood for a minor dent, and turned out when I stripped the hood the front was a huge piece of sheet metal, so I found a replacement sorry bonnet, then the paint I was told was on the car didnt match, then it turned into a full scale, teardown, remove all the fenders, doors, boot and bonnet, new door skins, new boot, new bonnet, paint everything, inside and out, fix all the rusted holes with sheet metal, I am sure you can find a lot of pics if you search on here for them, it was back on the road in 7 months, my friends almost disowned me since I worked on it 12 hours a day every saturday and sunday

Go for the less intensive painting if at all possible!

Hondo

 

[hondo402000]

PS and when you are wet sanding make sure you get a few rubber and foam rubber sanding blocks, if you sand with your hands your will put more pressure where your fingers are and have ridges in your sanding job

your paint guy will have the sanding blocks
Hondo

 

[sundown]

Hondo I plan on minor filling up the dents and basically rough the body and paint it the same white that it is now. I will be painting outside in my driveway.Should I still prime it before finish painting? Also all the trim and lights bumpers etc are off the car Thanks everybody for the input

 

[glemon]

If you are planning to use filler for the dents it would be best to prime it, you want to paint over a uniform surface, plus the primer will smooth the transition between filler and original finis, will also make it easier to see if you got everything perfectly smooth.

 

[hondo402000]

Hey sundown
talk to your paint guy they can be very helpful and have a lot of information. small dings you need to use a surfacer type filler, its a lot runnier than like bondo, it fills better and feathers out very nice they should have evercoat which is a thinner filler, and mix it correctly, get a set of digital scales and weigh it out is the best way to get it mixed correctly, I would also get a 6 inch sanding board also available at your paint jobber. Lots of sand paper, once you get the dings fixed spot prime the repaired areas, let it dry, wet sand the whole car, then I would prime the whole car, wet sand again and then paint, dont use a sealer,I believe you are not suppose to sand sealer, you just apply the top coat, and if you are not putting up a paint booth and are painting out side you need to paint like in the mid day but somewhere the sun wont be hitting the car, something about that sweet smell of paint that attracts all the bugs and they tend to be out early in the morniing or in the evening. And buy the good paper at the paint store and tape for masking the car off, dont use newspaper or regular masking tape

do some searches on youtube on fixing dings and dents it will be very helpful.


Hondo