paint ?

[rossco]

Anyone paint a Healey with the rear fenders on the car?

 

[Jerry]

Mine was painted with all fenders on the car but no stailess bead. The frame and underside of the fenders was previously painted. All the parts had previously had been stripped down to metal and primed and then fitted to the car again.

Jerry
BJ8

 

[John_Progess]

Rossco,
If you plan to two tone the car this will be necessary to get the cut line straight. Paint the underside of the car and fender before attaching so you are sure you have a couple of good coats of paint in the seam. Leave the stainless bead out and keep the fender away from the car about 1/4" so you are sure to get paint into the seam. Then when you install your beading put tape on all the tabs so you don't scratch your paint during installation. Have a good day!

John

 

[roscoe]

I painted mine with the rear wings in place as John recommends. I knew how difficult it is to get the fenders fitted, lots of yanking and tweaking, and I couldn't imagine doing that with a freshly painted part. Putting the beading in after is a snap if you take the precautionary steps and then all you have to do is tighten the bolts and you're done. I was used to painting the occasional airplane and I was pleasantly surprised at how fast the paint aplication went, despite my brain knowing it would be quicker.

 

[twas_brillig]

I've got another post running over my paint problems. If I decide to go for a cost-effective (ie semi-affordable) solution, I'll rent a double car garage for the winter of 2012/13 and (ideally) find an unemployed apprentice to do/help do the work.
I just tried reading a swack of postings on painting a Healey and my simple minded general approach appears to be (please advise of major holes!):
- pick a shop I'm comfortable with for doing the painting, and ask them how they want the car delivered for (1) body work (eg. some cracks in the bonnet edging that need welding, etc., the various dents and dints) (2) painting, and do what they recommend
- probably get the semi-collapsed section in the trunk lid heat shrunk/magicked while the car is complete
- strip all the chrome and external bits and pieces (bumpers; windshield; trim; everything)
- unbolt fenders and remove fenders and chrome beading; remove trunk and bonnet
- leave the shrouds in place
- address everything body wise and mechanical in the exposed areas while you've got the chance (eg. waxoyl the heck out of everything after rusted areas addressed)
- I'm thinking of getting the steel sheet metal acid dipped and zinc-phosphate coated; I'm kind of scared to even touch the doors due to alignment concerns. Paint stripper and sanding for them and the rockers.
- get the insides of all the panels painted
- reinstall the fenders, loosely
- deliver the car with hood and trunk lid separate (or however the shop wants it) along with VISA card and first born male child

This is a really simplistic view of a long, detailed procedure - but is it generally the right direction?

Thanks,
Doug
-

 

[Randy Forbes]

<span style="font-style: italic">"I'm kind of scared to even touch the doors due to alignment concerns."</span>

Unfortunately, you have to remove the doors to get the fenders off.

Whenever I have to remove a (hinged) panel that I want to go back in the exact same position, I drill two (2) 1/8" holes through the hinge (or mounting plate, depending on application) into the body below.

Upon reassembly, use a couple of loose 1/8" drill bits to insert through the holes, realigning before tightening everything back up.

 

[HealeyRick]

- I'm thinking of getting the steel sheet metal acid dipped and zinc-phosphate coated; I'm kind of scared to even touch the doors due to alignment concerns. Paint stripper and sanding for them and the rockers.
- get the insides of all the panels painted
- reinstall the fenders, loosely
- deliver the car with hood and trunk lid separate (or however the shop wants it) along with VISA card and first born male child

This is a really simplistic view of a long, detailed procedure - but is it generally the right direction?

Thanks,
Doug
-

Sounds like a good plan. I had good luck with acid-dipping my bugeye and the paint still looks good 25 years later. I'd remove the doors and have them dipped as well, If they are properly aligned now, reestablishing them won't be that difficult. I scribed the outline of the door hinges on my BJ7 before removing them. Helped a lot on the re-installation.

 

[twas_brillig]

I've done the scribing (we have a bugeye as well)for alignment, Rick; and Randy - you've relaxed me on the doors.

Thanks!
Doug

 

[HealeyRick]

Whenever I have to remove a (hinged) panel that I want to go back in the exact same position, I drill two (2) 1/8" holes through the hinge (or mounting plate, depending on application) into the body below.

Upon reassembly, use a couple of loose 1/8" drill bits to insert through the holes, realigning before tightening everything back up.

+1. Indexing holes are particularly helpful in getting the bonnet back on after removal. Just drill two holes through the hinge and bonnet mounting tab on each hinge. Makes life so much easier on re-assembly.

 

[tahoe healey]

Be sure the acid people know the car has aluminum as well as steel parts.

 

[twas_brillig]

Talked to two acid dipping companies today - one in Vancouver BC and one in Eugene Oregon. There were significant price differences, with Eugene the lower; either way, it takes a minimum of one week. Eugene picks up in Seattle and other places.
Also stopped by at a body shop today and they weren't keen on acid dipping, but suggested looking into dry ice and soda blasting.
We're guessing that the paint problems aren't corrosion at this time but disbonding between the primer and the top coats due to temperature changes and perhaps something to do with the old primer materials - the plating company marks on the bumpers are from 1986 so that would be the year that the paint job was done.
Thanks for the thoughts,
Doug

 

[Jerry]

How much did they want for the stripping? I have a TR3 to strip.

Jerry

 

[twas_brillig]

Metalworks Paint and Rust Removal 1-877 412 8806 Eugene Oregon
The gentleman I spoke to mentioned that there's a local chap who works on Healeys and uses them for dipping; he figured $ 68 to do a door; a bit more for a fender; assume one week for the process.
The Redi-Strip chaps in Vancouver (technically, Delta BC, just south of Van) were talking (without having seen the pieces) $ 150 to $250 for a fender; they acan lso put a zinc phosphate coating on for rust protection but figure you'd better get all yor metal work done first; Eugene uses an anti-rust coating to help protect the metal but not interfere with welding etc., but keep it out of the rain.
The body shop here in town I spoke to(dunno about their experience working with acid dipped parts as there's no local shop) were concerned that acid can get trapped in boxed & rolled sections (eg fender edges), and you can't really get it cleaned out, and it'll bleed out forever. They were keen on metal friendly blast media.
At least phone calls and research are cheaper before doing all the work! Confusing, too!.
Doug

 

[Legal Bill]

All my fenders were painted off the car.

 

[HealeyRick]

If your car is rust-free, soda blasting of the exterior surfaces is the way to go. If you think you've got some rust, though, acid dipping will take care of it. The only places that I can see being a problem with acid leach on the fenders, doors, trunk and bonnet lids on a big Healey would be the rolled edges on the wheel openings. Even then, with my experience on my Bugeye, I'd be willing to risk it. Acid dipping has gone out of favor in the U.S., but I think a lot of that has to do with EPA and state regulations that make it very difficult to run such an operation. Like I just read on another forum, "The only stuff that works is the stuff that will kill you."

 

[Legal Bill]

... "The only stuff that works is the stuff that will kill you."

I can't argue with that. I tried some environmentally safe paint stripper on my boat. The stuff made a better beverage than it did a paint stripper.