• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Paint type choices

RestoreThemAll

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
I've chosen to paint my BJ7 with Dupont base/clear black. I'm thinking of painting the chassis with single stage urethane. What do folks think of using these 2 different paints? What is the prefered paint for an original AH restoration?
 
Good question. I am considering the same thing and also the "back" of the outer sheet metal because this is some thing I can do myself and leave the outside to a professional.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

That's my plan too. Do as much as I can for the underside and inside in polyurethane and have the outside professionally done since the two-pack paint cannot easily be applied by a amateur.
 
I don't think a vote is a good war to move in one direction or another.
Single stage is a much easier product to work with. base/clear is superior when you have "non solid" colors.
 
If you are going for "original" as stated, then single stage is more authentic looking IMHO. I went this way for my restoration and like it. Have some process pictures here:

paint

I did have a harder time finding a painter in Southern California willing to do a single stage paint as most shops here are set up for base/clear. I've seen some very nice base/clear paint jobs. They have a bit more 'bling' in the highlights if you know what I mean.

Cheers,
John
 
A plug for PPG Delstar acrylic enamel. It can be sprayed as is (just add reducer) but it can also be catalized with a polyurethane hardener additive.

I just did the wheelwells (finally) of my car over the past couple of days; Fusor 805 wheelhouse coating/Delstar with hardener and flexitive (sounds contradictory, but it works). I'll get some pictures up here when I get past this current lazy spell...
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif With Mark Shaw. Further, I do not know why any "PROFESSIONAL" paint shop can not handle single stage or two stage painting. However, I do think that once you get your car painted and need to make a repair even for minor damage the two stage paint is going to require an expert!.---Fwiw-Keoke

Maybe that clarifies what I am talking about
 
Hi guys, just my 2 cents worth. I have been painting cars as an amateur since I was a teenager and I am close to retirement now. In the last 10 years I have done sheetmetal and paint restoration work on 5 or 6 cars for other people. about 6 years ago I switched to base/clear technology mostly on the urging of a close friend who was in the business. The base/clear does take longer to apply than a single stage paint but does not take particularly more skill. But it does take a bit more knowledge base of product because of the variances in product and the incompatability of some. The base/clear does tend to come out abit shinier than the single stage paints if it is finished and polished correctly. For that reason many people don't like to use base/clear on collector cars because they just think it doesn't look quite right. I guess they are rather right on that account. Yet a very well prepared single stage arylic enamel paint shown at Pebbles Beach would be quite shiny as well. Although the acrylic enamel would not hold its shine (without maintenance) as well. And there is the big difference, Base/clear paint holds its shine VERY well if finished properly. That is why all your new cars look so good for so long. And Base/clear will withstand the elements and everthing else in its environment better than anything else to date. Base clear is labor intensive to apply. It takes many coats of base colour to build up the proper film needed to make the colour cover to the consistency to have the proper colour expected. Then the clear coat is applied with at least 2 coats sometimes more. This is many go arounds the car before the actual painting processes is finished. Most shops do not want to apply single stage paints any more because they are set up to handle base/clear in every tool and at every step. Even their spraying people have narrowed their application skills to the technique of spraying base/clear. A technician who sprays predominantly base/clear would not be as proficient at single stage arylic enamels. And the ablity to guaranty a quality paint job with a high level finish of acrylic enamels would be riskier for a shop today. To get the enamel to lay out perfectly is difficult. But when spraying base/clear you have many points in the application steps to make adjustments in paint, or process if necessary. So shops want to stay with what they know and what they do the most of. Baseclear is much easier to blend with when making a repair. In acrylic enamel when blending paint you have to be very careful not only in the colour match but that the laying on of the paint flows very near if not exactly as the original paint flowed out. the pigment laying on the surface is noticeable. Different paint mix, thinners, air pressure, humidity, or even a different spray gun will affect the differences in the way the paint is laid out on the surface. even with hardeners, etc. added to single stage acrylic enamels, to fine tune and finish the finished surface to try to mask the blending is hard. Arcrylic enamels have to be well cured and hard to finish properly. I painted my corvette 20 years ago with single stage acrylic enamel in Red. Five years ago it was hit in the front end and i had to make repairs. I paint the front end of the car with base/clear, and blended the colour across the doors. Now the back half of the corvette is still the 20 yr old acrylic enamel and front end is base clear. You absolutely can not see where I blended it across the doors. I could lay the base red on so smoothly that you can not see where is stops and the acrylic enamel starts. the arcylic enamel was very smooth from years of buffing and waxing. And I can immediately make the clear coat as smooth as I want it by the degree I wet sand it and buff it. So I could match the texture and quality as well as the colour to what ever degree i wanted. Now days I sometimes (in the spring) buff the rear of the corvette's arylic enamel so as to keep it shiny to match the front of
the car. So the base clear is totally enduring and easily adjusted if necessay. Adjustable when being applied, and also later when repairing and matching. And the shine will last forever when finished properly.
 
Hi Vette,

I too have painted with many types of systems over the years and agree with your points. I don't have a big problem switching from single stage to base/clear but obviously some of the "pro" shops I spoke with did not want to do it .. for the reasons you gave.

A bit off-topic but I get into all sorts of unusual paints these days. Applying some soft touch paint today (feels like rubber or velvet depending on the amount of thinner) ... experimenting with chrome paint for industrial design models. check out www.alsacorp.com ... also using auto air colors .. waterbased (except the clear coat) .. on many small projects. https://www.autoaircolors.com/

Cheers,
John
 
John, thanks for the web sites to check out.

Patton, Yeh I don't believe it is worth the extra time and preparation work to use two stage paint on underside surfaces. Unless you really want very shinney, smoothed out engine bays and trunk enclosures.
 
I've been using urethane single stage lately. All the gloss and shine of a BC/CC with half the work. And also has a much longer life than acrylic enamel. Bob
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif Bob,
I haven't sprayed the single stage urethanes yet. Almost used it once, but just haven't found the need for it yet. Most my top coats I want finished to a very high gloss so I stick with Base/Clear. I do make rust repairs on older cars sometimes and I tend to use arcrylic enamels then, but I believe when arcrylic enamels are not as availiable (because they are going the way of lacquer) then single stage urethanes will be the choice in some cases. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
acrylic/enamel/2pack
acrylic - easy to use goes off quick
enamel - goes off slower - catches dust - harder than acrylic to use - thicker coat and better finish in my opinion
2pack - goes on real thin - better make sure the undercoat is perfect as all will show thru - nice gloss with no polishing needed - stuff i used was a cyanide base - no longer available now
 
Back
Top