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Paint Sprayer

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ronzet

ronzet

Jedi Knight
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I am progressing on the stripping of the engine compartment and getting very close to applying paint....I am trying to figure out what sprayer to buy. (cost is a factor here)

The staff at Meza Paint in Escondido California are very, very helpful guys and have recommended an HVLP gravity feed with a 1.7mm nozzle... The primer and paint I will use is the PPG two part primer (primer and harderner) and one part top coat Urethane.

Now the query... my compressor provides 3.5scfm @ 90psi and 8.8scfm @ 40 psi... 2HP 21 gallon.... Based upon the specs for various HVLP guns (Harbor Freight).. it would appear that my compressor's SCFM ratings fall short for use with HVLP but will be adequate for non-HVLP use...

This is an area in which I have very little current experience. The last time I painted a car was in 1969 and it was my 1930 Model A Ford -- we had few choices - enamel or laquer... I am getting very frustrated with all of the new paint and sprayer technologies...

Suggestions, guidance, advice, anecdotes, comments, asides, chides, jabs, or ?!?!?
 
Tony,

Thanks for the link. Looks like a wealth of knowledge that needs to be digested..... :smirk:
 
The urethanes like to have 45~50 PSI ~AT the gun~ (gravity fed) too. I was nearly in tears over th' orange peel until I upped th' pressure. It came out like GLASS in the end.

This was with Valspar products but I'll bet PPG is about the same.

And as I mentioned in other posts, if you treat it as a "panel" job, just mix what you'll use on a piece at a time, your "waste" will be minimal and it'll look FINE. Shoot all "joints" first, then as you mask each section you can be assured there won't be any sharp transitions (tape lines, funny color mis-matches).
 
Hey Doc,

Did you use a standard gun or one of the HVLP types??

I am leaning toward the standard gun since it seems to be better suited to my compressor.... I realize that the overspray is higher than with the HVLP but, heck, I am only a hobbiest... :smirk:

And I will be painting using the panel method you have advised.... starting with the engine compartment...
 
Ron...you DO have a water separator between that compressor & your paint duy, don't you?
 
Tony,

Yep, even for the pneumatic tools I use one on the compressor... Thanks for asking tho.... :thumbsup:
 
Mine's an ~ancient~ GRACO... I haven't been "green". :devilgrin:
 
Ron, I have used both an HVLP and an old tech gun in my hobbiest garage, without the venting you get in a professional garage I have to say the HVLP makes much less mess of paint all around, which aids being able to see well while you are painting, as well as making less mess. the modern paints are very hard to clean off things once dry.

I don't know what your situation is on the ventilation, but it is something to think about.

Greg
 
Greg,

Thanks for the comments...

I have found an HVLP gun that my compressor will support (at least per the specs)...

I am going to give it a try this weekend... I will be hanging sheet plastic in the garage to create a makeshift spray booth with an exit fan blowing to the outside... I'll let you know how it works...

Or you can read about the nutty guy who asphyxiated himself.... :smirk:
 
Ron, When i spray i make sure no head or eyebrow hair can not get into the job. Rub you eyebrows before you go in. Also i tape the arms and legs of my paper paint suit closed tight. If you are wearing latex type gloves watch out for drips from them. You will be surprised how much your hands will sweat. I also spray my suit down with a hand held water spray. Paper may have lint and i feel better about it when i dampen the suit just a little. When using a tack cloth open it all the way and wipe litely and do not apply pressure. i always go in one direction and do not swirl the cloth in a circular motion. Even when you really try to get into the corners or bottom edges its easy -even if you are dubble coating an area- to miss spots. I personally spray from bottom to top on a panel after carefully coating wheel well areas. Use a scrap panel to test your spray pattern and adjust the volumn and pattern to suit your liking. This is my rundown for the outside of the car. If you are just doing the engine bay use a drop light to check for thin spots after the room has cleared. Now is the time to recoat it if you see a problem. The kew is to keep the paint even and not heavy or thin. Imagin a heavy/ thin/ heavy /thin paint strip down the side of your car. Now if you put it on wet enough to keep the peal down to a minimum this is what will happen. The heavy will be flowing down the panel and hit the thin area. It will stop flowing at the bottom surface of the paint and the top will continue to move. Whalla you have just put a run in the paint. I truely believe that most runs are from uneven spraying OR just plain crazy heavy paint. Be sure to get a graduated mixing cup or 3 from your paint supplier and use it..The base coat for the car i am doing now is $110 per quart. (red is more $$$)Thats without clear/reducers/catalyst etc. My present 72 mgb project is on the rotisserie and i plan to spray the bottom of the floors and wheel wells tomorrow. Yep, Base coat and clear even under the car. Good luck. And i hope some of this helps. Bob
 
And there will be Pics???????????
 
Jack,

As I mentioned, my wife had wanted Iris Blue.... She has since changed her mind... Now it is Mineral Blue.... I am still waiting for the final decision... :wall:

Tony, don't give up on the Iris Blue.... The only decision she ever makes is that she has decided that she hasn't made a decision...

Once painted -- that will be it... Unless, of course, she changes her mind again... :rolleyes:

And, YES, pictures will be posted... :thumbsup:

Just as an aside... Looks like my MGA is going on the block.. Thanks to my aunt Ir(i)s and uncle Sam....
 
Wasn't Mineral Blue a color used only on the MGA coupe?
 
That's sad.
 
Tony,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Wasn't Mineral Blue a color used only on the MGA coupe? [/QUOTE]

I just checked a site MGB Colors
to check your comment and found that Mineral Blue was available on the 1965-69 MGB and the Midget for the same years... I can't vouch for the accuracy on the info but the site seems to have been well researched.

Jack...RE:Aunt IRiS... I am still trying to find other options. When you own a business it is easy to get blindsided.

After five years of effort I REALLY hate to part with it.. It is just now getting to the point of running very well with most of the restoration bugs worked out... I had planned on finishing the interior later this year. I could start on another A once things are settled, but don't know if I have it in me to do another total frame off... I'll let you know what happens.. :cheers:

smaller%20right%20rear.JPG
 
ronzet said:
I will be hanging sheet plastic in the garage to create a makeshift spray booth with an exit fan blowing to the outside.
Click to expand...

Ron, remember, when you blow air and fumes out, you are also pulling dirty unfiltered air in. Not wanted on a new paint job! I'd tape up a couple of household filters where the outside air will come in. Not proper, but better than nothing.
 
Paul,

It's times like this that I remember why I never got into bodywork and painting in the first place.. Give me mechanical and electrical any day -- that I am good at.. :smirk:
 
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