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Paint prep
- Thread starter aroostok
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dklawson
Yoda
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Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint. Give them a call and see what they have.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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I use GON, but any good prep sol will do a good job, every paint supply store has it.
Online
[ QUOTE ]
You can actually make it too smooth!
[/ QUOTE ]
This statement is very true! The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, as it's almost like painting glass. 200 will make the paint stick better. 2000 for clear coat prep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gifPJ
You can actually make it too smooth!
[/ QUOTE ]
This statement is very true! The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, as it's almost like painting glass. 200 will make the paint stick better. 2000 for clear coat prep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gifPJ
PC
Obi Wan
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[ QUOTE ]
Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint...
[/ QUOTE ]This is very good advice. To ensure compatibility with your finish system it's wise to use whatever prep the manufacturer recommends.
[ QUOTE ]
... The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, ...
[/ QUOTE ]I completely disagree. I've been examining a lot of cars lately and I've noticed that the majority of re-sprays I've seen have sanding marks clearly visible below the color layers. They're caused by sanding the primer coats with abrasives that are too coarse. They can't be wetsanded out because the topcoats aren't thick enough.
Follow your finish manufacturer's recommendation for final sanding before shooting color. For example, Sherwin-Williams Automotive recommends sanding with P320 (or finer), P400 (or finer) or P600 (or finer) depending on which of their primer formulas is used and whether your next stage is topcoating or sealcoating.
PC.
Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint...
[/ QUOTE ]This is very good advice. To ensure compatibility with your finish system it's wise to use whatever prep the manufacturer recommends.
[ QUOTE ]
... The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, ...
[/ QUOTE ]I completely disagree. I've been examining a lot of cars lately and I've noticed that the majority of re-sprays I've seen have sanding marks clearly visible below the color layers. They're caused by sanding the primer coats with abrasives that are too coarse. They can't be wetsanded out because the topcoats aren't thick enough.
Follow your finish manufacturer's recommendation for final sanding before shooting color. For example, Sherwin-Williams Automotive recommends sanding with P320 (or finer), P400 (or finer) or P600 (or finer) depending on which of their primer formulas is used and whether your next stage is topcoating or sealcoating.
PC.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I painted a VW years & years ago - got it too smooth & the first time I went through a high pressure wash my new paint ended up on the concrete!