-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Paint prep
- Thread starter aroostok
- Start date
Share this page
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint. Give them a call and see what they have.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
I use GON, but any good prep sol will do a good job, every paint supply store has it.
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
You can actually make it too smooth!
[/ QUOTE ]
This statement is very true! The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, as it's almost like painting glass. 200 will make the paint stick better. 2000 for clear coat prep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gifPJ
You can actually make it too smooth!
[/ QUOTE ]
This statement is very true! The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, as it's almost like painting glass. 200 will make the paint stick better. 2000 for clear coat prep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gifPJ
PC
Obi Wan
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint...
[/ QUOTE ]This is very good advice. To ensure compatibility with your finish system it's wise to use whatever prep the manufacturer recommends.
[ QUOTE ]
... The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, ...
[/ QUOTE ]I completely disagree. I've been examining a lot of cars lately and I've noticed that the majority of re-sprays I've seen have sanding marks clearly visible below the color layers. They're caused by sanding the primer coats with abrasives that are too coarse. They can't be wetsanded out because the topcoats aren't thick enough.
Follow your finish manufacturer's recommendation for final sanding before shooting color. For example, Sherwin-Williams Automotive recommends sanding with P320 (or finer), P400 (or finer) or P600 (or finer) depending on which of their primer formulas is used and whether your next stage is topcoating or sealcoating.
PC.
Presumably you have chosen a paint system and used all compatible components (primers, sealers, top coat) from that one manufacturer. Your paint supplier will have a prep-sol that they can recommend that will also be compatible with the paint...
[/ QUOTE ]This is very good advice. To ensure compatibility with your finish system it's wise to use whatever prep the manufacturer recommends.
[ QUOTE ]
... The prep sanding on the primer should be 200 grit. 400 is too fine, ...
[/ QUOTE ]I completely disagree. I've been examining a lot of cars lately and I've noticed that the majority of re-sprays I've seen have sanding marks clearly visible below the color layers. They're caused by sanding the primer coats with abrasives that are too coarse. They can't be wetsanded out because the topcoats aren't thick enough.
Follow your finish manufacturer's recommendation for final sanding before shooting color. For example, Sherwin-Williams Automotive recommends sanding with P320 (or finer), P400 (or finer) or P600 (or finer) depending on which of their primer formulas is used and whether your next stage is topcoating or sealcoating.
PC.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I painted a VW years & years ago - got it too smooth & the first time I went through a high pressure wash my new paint ended up on the concrete!