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Paint it piece by piece????

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brent615

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I am considering taking off all of my body panels and having them stripped/media blasted/etc. before having them primed and painted and returning them to the car. My thought is that this gives me a chance to seal (with primer) both sides of each piece...if for no other reason than peace of mind. Then I would have everything painted, at the same time of course so the same batch of paint is used, and reinstall everything.

Thoughts or experiences are welcome!
 
I have pondered this, and other strategies for some time. I am in the middle of a perpetual TR6 restoration right now. I recently took a 14-week continuing education class at my local community college in auto body restoration and painting techniques. Here's what I have done, and am planning on doing.

1. Already had body tub sandblasted to remove everything including paint and undercoating.

2. Will paint underside of tub and wheel wells with POR15. This stuff is unbelievably tough and easy to apply with a brush.

3. Have already primed engine bay with gray urethane primer. Will prime the rest after I finish patching some rust holes.

4. Will sandblasted frame and paint with POR15.

5. Will strip fenders and paint inside of fenders with POR15.

6. Will remount fenders on body and paint with base/clear coat urethane paint.

This is of course, a brief overview of the strategy I am planning on doing. You may have reasons for doing some things different. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Good luck on your project.
 
Hi guys - I'm at the beginning phases of the same sort of restoration as well.

I'm taking the major body panels and having them checmically dipped rather than blasted due to close proximity to a dipping place and concern over the blasting warping the panels.

Dan's list looks good, but I thought the rule of thumb was to paint the fenders, hood, trunk lid etc off the car?
 
Here is what I was told by an AutoBody repair shop about painting one piece at a time.
If there is "Flake" {Metal Flake} In the paint you intend to use and the body panels are not attached to the car the "Flake" will not lay in the proper orientation and will give a different appearance on each panel when assembled.
If there is no "Flake" your chances of having the panels "Match" are better But not completely assured. His recomendation is to have all of the panels {even loosely attachet would be ok} to the car for application of the paint.
This Owner Operator AutoBody man has been in the autobody repair buissness for over 25 years and does surperlative work, he comes highly recomended by many, to get a job done by him takes months in advance apppointments.
I tend to take is word as gosple.
Kerry
 
Brent,

I would follow you original plan in having each piece which is able to be removed taken off the car and primed on all sides.

Then re attach it to the vehicle for the final paintjob to be done all in one application as Kerry suggested above.

Cheers , Pete.
 
After sandblasting, wipe entire panel down thoroughly with a degreaser/dewaxer supplied by one of the major paint manufacturers. Sand will leave a residue behind that paint won't stick to.
I would use epoxy primer. It is a better sealant and won't allow moisture to get to the metal. Lesser primers, if allowed to sit long enough, will allow parts to rust. You never know how long parts are going to sit after primer before they get a final coat. Epoxy primer must be scuffed with an abrasive pad such as Scotch Brite if it has sat for more than 72 hours.
Epoxy primer is also very dangerous to use. Proper ventilating equipment is a must.
To avoid overspray on your freshly painted rolling chassis, lay plastic sheeting over it before putting the body on.
Another problem with painting each panel as you go is that atmospheric conditions can change the color, even if out of the same can of paint.
Use the same color of primer on everything
 
Go for it. I pulled my whole car apart and it has made it so easy to work with each panel getting to all the nooks and crannies. I do agree that fitting the panels back to the tub for the final spray is a good idea to obtain an even finish.
 
71tr said:
I do agree that fitting the panels back to the tub for the final spray is a good idea to obtain an even finish.
Click to expand...

Well I just learned something - sorry if my earlier post threw anyone off.
 
Thanks everyone. I have a great shop here in Nashville that will blast the panels at a good price (Blastmasters)so I think I will go that route, prime, reassemble and paint.

Nashville British Car Club show is in October and I'd love to accomplish that by then...of course I also don't want to miss any warm dry driving weather this summer.
 
V6MGB said:
Brent,

I would follow you original plan in having each piece which is able to be removed taken off the car and primed on all sides.

Then re attach it to the vehicle for the final paintjob to be done all in one application as Kerry suggested above.

Cheers , Pete.
Click to expand...


How are you going to paint the insides of the fenders and other inaccessible areas if they are on the car??---Keoke
 
Brent, if you can find a soda blaster in your area that is the way to go. It does a beautiful job with no worries about warping the panels etc. I am restoring a 53 TD and all major panels were soda blasted.
 
I do any brazing/welding and beating out of panels before soda blasting. I do not use any fillers prior to blasting. Once blasted I try to get a coat of epoxy primer on as soon as possible and then start with fillers, sanding primers etc.
 
zahnej,
I see your from VA. I've been able to locate a dipper on the beltway of D.C. but not much luck in a soda blaster. I'm about 1 hr SE of D.C. in MD. Where abouts in VA are you or the blaster you used?

Gordo
 
Hi Folks;

We "USED" to have a "Dipper" here in the Northeastern part of PA: The EPA or whomever shut them down: They were know as "REDI-STRIP": You may have seen them advertised in Hemmings etc:

They were Great! An avg. fender cost approx. $60 - $80.00 to dip: One thing You should know, If you already don`t know: When your part comes out of the Chemical Dip; You get back whatever is Left! Should you have Rust thru the size of a Pin Hole; It`ll be there: Should you have Rust thru the size of a Basketball; It`ll be there! That could be Bad or Good depending on what sort of Restoration you want to accomplish:

Media Blasting is Next Best in My Opinion: Sand Blasting would be My Last Choice cause as mentioned here; It could possibly wrap the Metal:

Relative to painting: I would do ea. pcs seperately; But, All the pcs to be painted at the same time so you do use the same batch of paint & get a perfect match:

I`m not a body guy but have gotten involved personally in similar type projects so this is just an Opinion:

Have a "Blast" / "No", have a "Dip";

Regards, Russ
 
Gordo, I am in the Harrisonburg area and the guy I use is in Dayton. There is also a guy in Waynesboro but I have not used him. Soda blasting equipment is completely mobile and they will come to your house if you want. Try getting on the internet and do a Google search - there has to be someone up there.

I don't mean to sound like a soda blast salesman which I am not, but having used several different processes to get paint and rust off, this process is completely superior. You can take a whole car to a guy and the soda will not hurt chrome, glass, or rubber.
 
A friend had four good TR4 fenders ruined by a sandblasting company. I used a chemical stripper, a little more time consuming but works great.
 
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