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Paint help?

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Tr3aguy

Tr3aguy

Jedi Knight
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I have questions about paint. I have used a few products and want to make sure I will not have any issues when I get to the final stages on paint.

I used a Spies Hecker acid etch primer on the panels that were acid dipped and neutralized. They have been inside now for about 10 months. I want to seal them till a later date.

The body was media blasted and covered with a PPG dp50 lf epoxy primer.

So here are the questions.

1) Is the PPG over the Spies Hacker good for sealing, is it ok? What to do for prepping the surface?
2) If I grind away areas for metal replacement and welding what should I use to protect the area after the work? I do not have a spray gun so could I use rattle can stuff to protect?
3)Will I need to just sand for Top coating or does it take more prep work?
4) If I need a small amount of body filler in spots will it bond on top of the PPG primer?
5) Best place to purchase paint at a good price?
 
I use DP40 epoxy primer regularly (khaki gray in color) with the 401LF hardener that together give a 7 day recoat window ( not quite hardened yet and filler and other primers will cohere and bond to it without sanding) You are outside any recoat window on both products (fully cured) and you'll have to check with Spies Hecker if their product can be recoated at this point and with what. The DP will need to be sanded thoroughly with 220 grit and a red scotchbrite pad then RECOATED with DP to get anything to stick to it.(including filler). There is some acetone in the DP which will , along with mechanical sanding , bite back into the original DP which is now hard as a rock . Test it with some lacquer thinner on a clean paper towel. If the paint softens its not fully cured yet. Most likely you'll see that lacquer thinner does nothing to it. You definately can not just lightly sand and recoat or apply filler to either of the products you are using, but check with your paint supplier to be sure. I just bought a gallon of Nason Ful-thane urethane in Old English White for my 62 MGA , it was under $200 including the hardener. Kevin
 
Hey JP!

You are using great stuff. I was laughing just yesterday about a little DP90 I left in a cup after a job. It's a hockey puck...you have to use a knife to even scratch it. So, in answer to your seal question...it will be outstanding.

For after grinding, you can by a can-spray "weldable" primer from any welding or bolt supply company. It is not as durable as your DP50, but it will work fine under anything else you spray later.

Prep for top-coat is a thourough sanding with 400 grit for final coat, or 220 under another shot of primer. Do not miss any areas at all, and use a flat block as much as possible - but you must use a block on the large flat areas on the bonnet, boot, wings and doors. During the sanding with a block you will get a feel for the metal, and how straight it is. If you have a lot of low spots (that is where the the block misses touching an area) or high spots (that cuts through to the metal), then go with another coat of primer and do it again. My car took 3 sprayings before I was happy with it. It helps to alternate colors with the primer so you can see as the sanding is about to cut all the way through.

I wish I could recommend a place to get the paint. I use English Color ( a national chain), only because it is convenient...but the stuff is like liquid gold.

I think that's everything...let me know if you need more detail ..

John

With my job I have put glaze on, under, or all around the DP without any adhession problems...But! I only paint over it within 24 hours. After 24 I rough the surface with 220 to 400 grit to ensure the over coat will not have any bonding problems. If you plan to use glaze over it, I rough it first with 60-100 grit to give the glaze a good bite.
 
Well thanks so much for the responses. I am learning more about the paint process day by day. With all the effort to stop the rust from eating any more of the body I just want to do it right the first time.

So the DP needs to resprayed to give me that 7 day window for overcoating after it hardens....but most primers will be fine to cover weld work until the last DP seal coat.

Thanks again.
 
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