Paint for small stuff

[Rut]

What's the best paint you've used for small parts like seat rails, frames, etc.? Best for engine and other high temp places, brake drums, calipers, etc. I'm thinking rattle can products vs setting up the spray gun.
Thanks, Rut

 

[drooartz]

I've used the engine paint in rattle cans you can get from your local auto parts store for high-heat stuff, and standard Rustoleum black or silver for other parts.

 

[Whitephrog]

I use Moss green engine paint with a high temp clear coat for everything that's supposed to be green. Like Drew, I use Rustoleum for most everything else. Mostly glossy black. If the black parts are in the engine compartment I use clear coat on them as well.

 

[Rut]

Thanks guys...I'm starting on the seat frames and slides and wasn't sure what would last. Since I have carpet and padding under the seats the rails have 'bowed' and I'm thinking of using some delrin washers to lift them and make them level. I want to try to preserve the paint, but I think it might be a continual process.
Rut

 

[sqbsprite]

The spacers are a good idea. Originally there was a strip of wood that was about 3/8" thick that went under the rails. Most of those are never still there after all these years.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I prefer rattle cans that have a fan pattern rather than a spot pattern.

 

[equiprx]

I have a steel roll around cart 4 x 4 x 2, full of various brand, application rattle cans. I can paint steel, aluminum and plastic.

 

[Rut]

Thanks, more great info... I saw a rolling cart/seat with space for tools, paint, etc. What do ya'll use for prep after you sand or wire brush the old paint and rust away prior to painting? Is it worth it to powder coat or oven bake these parts for durability?

 

[equiprx]

I use alchahol as a pre-prep most of the time. It's cheap, handy, dries almost immediately and less toxic, as long as you don't imbibe. I hadn't thought of baking the parts after paint, does anyone know what would be an optimum temp? Assuming the paint is OK in an oven. Powder coating would be a great addition to my tools but too much space needed, even though I already have a really nice new industrial/scientific oven that would hold most parts, probably even 16" wheels or a small four pot motor.

 

[Rut]

There are some pretty neat coatings from the firearms industry that are very durable and come in a rattle can. Some are ceramic based and have great wear characteristics and some of them you bake.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Of course you can take this to any level you want, powder coating, spraying high quailty automotive paint from a paint gun or using quailty rattle can. I like the Duplicolor high temp engine paints as well, they go on nice and have a hard shell, I like to use the DC engine primer for a first coat, this make the color coat cover better, then in some cases I finish after the color coat with DC engine clear, if I want a part to be really shiney.

I'm not a big fan of Rustoleum, it's a slow drying, very soft paint, and I think it's not very durable, but each to thier own.

 

[Rut]

Thanks for your imput...I can go overboard on things like this and have the capability to set up my paint gun, but if I can get away with a good quality rattle can I prefer it. I also spend more money on trying to salvage parts when a new part is cheaper and in better shape. My goal is to work on things I can bring back to original condition before I tear down the car next winter. I need new floors and I'm sure some body panel parts and I want to get those repaired before it goes to the stripper/body man/painter. My goal is a good streetable Bugeye that looks very close to original in configuration and color.
Thanks agin, Rut

 

[JPSmit]

I too have an assortment of rattle cans. As Hap says, rustoleum is soft - great for springs and stuff that flexes. I love using Hot Rod Black (duplicolor?) instead of gloss black. To my eyes, gloss black doesn't look factory, the Hot Rod Black has a more authentic sheen. I also use a lot of rattle can clear coat for all those parts that were never painted originally but which I have cleaned up.

 

[kalist]

Just to second what Hap said. If you use a primer before you top coat small parts you will be much happier with the results. For gloss black parts I like to use an automotive acrylic enamel with a hardener additive. I have a small door jamb gun that works great for this. I just sprayed a block with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint and was very pleased with the way it flowed out.

 

[dfwip]

I understand obsessing over small parts.
Believe me, I tried every brand of rattle can out there.
Rustoleum was the worst.
Duplicolor was the best.
I ended up using duplicolor hi-temp for everything I was painting, as it provided the best results. The attached photo shows a part (the diff) done with duplicolor hi-temp.
The axle housing was powder coated.

A couple suggestions...
Clean the part WELL. Hi speed wire brush or beadblast. The paint needs something to "bite" to. Always prime first. Apply two coats of primer and two coats of color. First coat should be a light mist coat, second coat should be cover coat. I like Duplicolor self-etching primer. I let the primed part sit for 24 hours before topcoating. Apply your topcoats (start to finish) within one hour. Don't worry about a minor run. You can usually fix it with a third coat (yes, the run will blend and disappear). If for some reason after an hour you decide it needs more paint, you MUST wait seven days before applying more. Trust me on this one.

Finally, do not think a rattle can will ever match properly done powder coating....it won't. But you will get about 90% of the way there at a fraction of the cost.

Paul

 

[Rut]

Thanks again for all the replys, what great info! I feel like I've got what I need to do the job now with your advice.
Rut

 

[Whitephrog]

Okay. I'm convinced...no more Rustoleum for me.

 

[vagt6]

I understand obsessing over small parts.
Believe me, I tried every brand of rattle can out there.
Rustoleum was the worst.
Duplicolor was the best.
I ended up using duplicolor hi-temp for everything I was painting, as it provided the best results. The attached photo shows a part (the diff) done with duplicolor hi-temp.
The axle housing was powder coated.

A couple suggestions...
Clean the part WELL. Hi speed wire brush or beadblast. The paint needs something to "bite" to. Always prime first. Apply two coats of primer and two coats of color. First coat should be a light mist coat, second coat should be cover coat. I like Duplicolor self-etching primer. I let the primed part sit for 24 hours before topcoating. Apply your topcoats (start to finish) within one hour. Don't worry about a minor run. You can usually fix it with a third coat (yes, the run will blend and disappear). If for some reason after an hour you decide it needs more paint, you MUST wait seven days before applying more. Trust me on this one.

Finally, do not think a rattle can will ever match properly done powder coating....it won't. But you will get about 90% of the way there at a fraction of the cost.

Paul

Paul, that's one ofthe best tutorials I've seen in a long time about painting small items.

You should write a book, great explanation!

Thank you. :thumbsup:

 

[dfwip]

Yup, that's me...
My only claim to fame...rattle can expert.
I guess Dirty Harry was right...
"A man's GOT to know his limitations".

Paul

 

[jsfbond]

I hadn't thought of baking the parts after paint, does anyone know what would be an optimum temp?

I had a customer who baked his wheels in the oven while his wife was away, and had to buy her a new one due to the smell. It may seem like a small amount of fumes, and not much baking needed to fully cure the paint, but don't do it! Unless she has been hinting about getting a new stove. By the way this was painted with "Dayton" brand rattle cans from Grainger.

Granted its been stored in the back of a machine shop for twenty years.