• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A original oil filter, TR3A

Share this page

NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Bronze
Offline
Yesterday I replaced the prop shaft u-joints (what fun!), and went for a drive. Realized I've put almost 100 miles on the car since I got it, and don't know when the last oil change took place.

I've got what looks to be the original canister oil filter assembly (not the spin on). Where do folks get the cartridges for these?

Shall I go with Castrol 20/50?

Any caveats?

Thanks.
Tom
 
You might be able to find it locally if you have a BAP/GEON auto store or other stores that specialize in imports but more likely you will have to order from one of the usual suppliers.

If the latter then you might think about converting to a spin-on filter -- though you should really change that cartridge one time just to get an appreciation for the experience.
 
NAPA online lists the # BA 0418921, Price: $8.99, and the image shown is that of a Crosland filter. The WIX part number is 51302, and that usually parallels a NAPA filter number (made by WIX, as I recall).

So a replacement cartridge might be as close as your nearest NAPA (although it might take a day or so to get the filter from a district warehouse if the local store doesn't have it on the shelf)!
 
Geo Hahn said:
You might be able to find it locally if you have a BAP/GEON auto store or other stores that specialize in imports but more likely you will have to order from one of the usual suppliers.

If the latter then you might think about converting to a spin-on filter -- though you should really change that cartridge one time just to get an appreciation for the experience.
Click to expand...

Hey Tom,... George is right. That bolt is about a "foot" long and EXTREMELY difficult to get threaded. Pay particular attention to the gasket surrounding the canister... it's amazing how much oil can be pumped out at 60psi.
My highly subjective opinion is, a lot of todays problems were caused, because a lot of TR's oil was never changed again, after an owners first experience.
Two hours is not unreasonable...
Good luck Bob
 
Be sure to dig the old gasket out of the groove. A dental pick or similar will help, since the groove is pretty deep. It's not unusual to find two gaskets in it !

Lots of people like Castrol but I've had some bad experiences with it. I use Valvoline full synthetic 20W50 in my Triumphs. With it, I feel safe in stretching the oil change interval to 5-7k miles, which more or less compensates for the price, IMO.

My FLAPS can get the cartridges, but they have to order them. I put a spin-on adapter on the 59 a long time ago, but I'm still not sure if it was a good move or not. I still wind up with hot oil running down my arm at every change, it's just not as much oil. And it still leaks.

Note that there is supposed to be a seal under the canister bolt head, which is not included with the cartridge. Doesn't need to be replaced every time (IMO), but if your canister leaks, it's a good thing to check.
https://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/4.php

When tightening the canister back up, guide the open end into the groove. Obvious, I know, but I missed it the first time. And you'd be amazed at how much oil can get out through the groove !
 
I haven't had any problems with putting the canister back on the 3. Take out old gasket and install new. Run the bolt in until your canister nears the gasket, maybe 1/4" away. Press the canister by hand against the gasket, turning slightly to assure that there is consistant contact. Hold firmly in place; do not allow it to move. Tighten bolt with free hand.
It has worked for me every time.
 
I had that canister on both my TR3 and TR4. The TR3 was first and it always took a while to get that big long bolt on there. Then the first time I did the TR4 it was a breeze. It turns out the reason the TR3 was so hard was that the circlip was missing on the bolt. There is a circlip up inside the cup on the bolt that holds the spring loaded disk that the cartridge butts up against. Without this circlip you have to push against the spring before the bolt engages the threads in the canister holder. Once I installed the circlip on the TR3 it was a breeze to change.

I was able to find the filter cartridges locally with no problem.

Having said all that I ended up going with the spin on adapter for both cars just the same in the end.
 
Back
Top