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Original BN6 / BN7 Battery Switch Wiring Question

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Duane_Rhynard

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I am in the process of installing a new wiring harness on my BN6.

Where does the coil cutoff wire exit the harness on an original? Any pictures would be great!

Thanks,
Duane
'58 BN6
 

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IT is the only Black/White wire in the Boot area harness.
 
Keoke said:
IT is the only Black/White wire in the Boot area harness.
Click to expand...

Keoke, thanks for the response!

My issue is on my BN6 2-seater is the cutoff wire on my new harness exits in the trunk by the drivers side tail light. I believe it should exit the harness just before the harness goes through the bulkhead into the trunk area. In other words it should exit the harness between the fuel pump wire and the sending unit wire. My old harness (Moss Circa 1980 - Not original) had the wire between the fuel pump wire and the sending unit wire.

I'm looking for confirmation.....
 
MY experience with that wire says it exits inside the trunk area which provides access to the switch????
 
Keoke said:
MY experience with that wire says it exits inside the trunk area which provides access to the switch????
Click to expand...

Keoke,

On my BN6 the cutoff switch connections are not in the trunk area, they are near the differential carrier in the same "cavity" as the fuel pump, and located on the switch installed on the inside wall of the trunk. It just seems strange to me that the wire would run out into the trunk area and then back again into the "cavity" again to be connected.

Thanks,
Duane

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OK MY Bad can't shake BJ8 goodies:congratulatory:
 
Finally resolved thanks to Roger Moment!


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This switch has to be one of the most troublesome parts on a Healey! At California Healey Week, we had three cars out of 60 which were temporarily disabled by these switches giving out - until they could be troubleshot by master mechanic Russ Thompson.

Probably many more problems created than thefts prevented by these contraptions.
 
On my BN6 (L942), there's a welded/captive nut on the same bulkhead panel that the switch is mounted through.

That's where the ground was connected to the chassis on mine when I took it apart__before I deleted the switch...
 
Not to hijack but what exactly is the issue with these switches? Is is a quality thing. I'm used to having a battery cut off on my cars and never had a problem with them but they have always been a race car type part since the cars are Hillclimb and sprint spec (which my newish 100/6is becoming) Or is it just that a few unfortunate problems have morphed into something else.


Andy
 
Andy,

Just like any electrical item that carries high current, these switches do not have an infinite life. Most of the time it's either the spring or the contacts that have worn over the years to a point where the switch fails. The original ones are are easily rebuilt and then should last another 30 years!

Duane
'58 BN6

haasad said:
Not to hijack but what exactly is the issue with these switches? Is is a quality thing. I'm used to having a battery cut off on my cars and never had a problem with them but they have always been a race car type part since the cars are Hillclimb and sprint spec (which my newish 100/6is becoming) Or is it just that a few unfortunate problems have morphed into something else.


Andy
Click to expand...
 
I agree with:
Duane
'58 BN6
 
Thanks for that information, My 100/6 has a new lucas switch in the standard fit position in the boot so I'll leave it fitted, I intend putting a motorsport sport type cut off switch in the bulkhead behind the driver seat in the main feed to the starter . I can then easily use a remote pull to stop handle for scrutineering. Are there any issues with doing this on my positive earth car? ( I'm a good spanner jockey but less adept with electrickery !!) I'll do an alternator conversion and negative earth sometime in the next year or so but an not ready for that yet.

Andy
 
Thanks for that , I will leave the standard earth cut off switch together with the coill isolator in position the fit a motorsport isolator in the starter feed with a pull cable to work.
 
I agree with Steve - I have rebuild my oldest switch
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ATIONAUSTINHEALEY10061958#5239506712836077122
Not satisfed, I have buy one new for my 100/6- on one of my first road tests at one corner the eletrical power dissapared, lucly
returned few second ago, learned the lesson-I have omitted the switch, the bug never occour.....
I now have one standard battery cut, direct--NO TROUBLES
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/SCHEMAImproved1006#6075902420290137938
 
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