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Spitfire Opinions on this Spitfire?

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Scott_Hower

Scott_Hower

Luke Skywalker
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The bumpers are ugly.
 
Looks solid enough from the pix. Having a hardtop is always a plus. Looks like you got a decent one.

Mickey
 
roofman said:
The bumpers are ugly.
Click to expand...

Yeah, well, besides that /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif. Anything jump out as worrying? I've asked the seller to put it on a lift and take photos of the frame. Anything to look for specifically?

I had a Spit years ago, almost identical to this one.
 
For specific areas, I'll defer to our Spitfire experts. However, just a general observation: Having an original example, even if a bit shopworn, is a plus in my book. Looks like everything is there, and has the original interior. Floorpans and boot floor look original and very good. As I said, from the pictures it looks solid enough. If the sheet metal is in that shape, I would think the frame is likewise, but of course, it's best to have a look firsthand.
 
As noted in other posts....check for rust. Getting a look underneath would be very useful. Also getting a magnet on the sills to check for filler would be good. The sills and the back of the windsheild pillars are typical rust spots, as is the driver side footwell and bottom of the battery box.

Also, check whether this has been resprayed. Hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the paint under the bonnet is a little lighter than the outside - one would expect the opposite.

If this car has been in California for some time I would expect the mileage to be higher. Californians get to drive their cars more than most. 52K seems low.

I don't see a commission number or VIN on this ebay listing, which would tell you whether its a California car originally or not. I suspect it is not, because I don't see a catalytic convertor warning light on the dash. I think the Califormia cars had three warning lights on the centre dash, the one in the middle being the cat-light.

Get a photo of the commission plate, which should also give you the trim codes to check paint originality. Late-79 (November onwards) Triumph moved from commission numbers to VIN numbers, but there should be some form of commission plate somewhere.

Also get a serial number off the motor. Says its been rebuilt, but a check would help confirm whether its been replaced.

There's a hundred things to check for mechanically. If you are really serious, try to get an onsite inspection done. I wouldn't buy anything without a test drive.
 
tdskip said:
Did you buy it Scott?
Click to expand...

Yes, sir. Just need to sort the logistics with the seller.

Not sure why, but I got a good vibe from the photos. Original jack, spare cover, factory hardtop, boot and tonneau there, looks straight. Dusty CA plates, I don't think it has ever left the state.

I've asked for a few more close up photos, particularly the underside, but with any luck it will be in my driveway in early Feb.
 
guzzul said:
I don't see a commission number or VIN on this ebay listing, which would tell you whether its a California car originally or not. I suspect it is not, because I don't see a catalytic convertor warning light on the dash. I think the Califormia cars had three warning lights on the centre dash, the one in the middle being the cat-light.
Click to expand...

I have the commission number and it is a CA suffix (FM97432UC), I think the C indicates CA Catalyst.

I'm not bothered about the engine condition if the body is sound and unmolested. I love mechanical work; hate body work. I did the inner and outer sills on my MGB and it will be a cold day in you know where before I repeat that stunt again.
 
Congrats are in order I see.

The "UC" suffix does indeed indicate California. I think a catalytic convertor was put on all the California models, along with some other emissions stuff to address California's more stringent requirements at that time.

I'm surprised not to see an emissions service light on that dash, though.

You'll find out all the stuff thats been done to it (or not done as the case may be) as time goes on. Meanwhile, I'm with you...as long as the body and frame are solid, everything else can be fixed!!

Good luck.
 
For whatever it is worth, I'm only about an hour away from La Mesa (inland San Diego).

I could run down there and check it out if it helps any.
 
I say dive in with both feet and don't look back! That looks like a keeper to me.
 
I would have to agree with everyone here, you did good. I agree with you on the body work, getting ready to replace the passenger floor in my spit... I'll take engine work on any day, but body work....
Dennis
 
Yes!

I saw this car on Ebay. This is the sort of car that makes us very jealous up here in Canada. This is exactly the sort of Spit/TR6 I would like to pick up from California eventually!

I see what you see - rust free, original, good buy!


Adam H.
___________________________________________________________
1973 Triumph Spitfire.
 
If its everything the seller says & a true Calif car its a good one.I purchased a Calif Spit a few years back in the same shape & REALLY happy for + or - the same pricing with shipping(Dependable Auto Transport) to Ohio Grab it you'll be happy.Although mine was restored to a higher degree this one i can tell is a good one.You can see mine at
https://www.myspitfire.zoomshare.com Mine came w/a HT & overdrive,but i'll bet you'll be upgrading as i am constantly doing,added 'Coker'WW'S,Air shocks 6 speaker system,70 serious Amco center console and much more.Good Luck...its a good buy..........Do make sure its got the AIR-INTAKE-COWL the factory added as a revision it connects to the lower 5 bolt spoiler to reduce temperatures,if it DOESN'T I SELL a better cowl to bolt in place.much better than the CARDBOARD one the factory put in.Cheers
 
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