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One thing after another

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Thanks Doc. Carla's home with her "good eyes" so we'll try to check it out. I just looked in the VB catalog thinking "maybe we should just replace the whole valve." OUCH!! $600.00...how can THAT be? :smile: Hopefully, that won't have to happen.
 
OK, here's the latest scoop. We can't see into the valve hole where the low pressure sensor switch lives but it feels like (using a toothpick) that we do have a valley. Disconnected the two lines out of the master cylinder and the brake pedal goes to the floor and squirts lots of fluid out the hole for front brakes but spits out air and a little fluid for the rear brakes. Does this mean just more bleeding in the rear or a master cylinder repair kit? If it's a repair kit, do we get parts for the main piston, etc. or the trap valve in the banjo fitting? HOPE we are narrowing it down. Many thanks.

Gary and Carla
 
Perhaps an air bell migrated to the MC... I'd be for reassembly and bleed it again.

And don't forget to "irrigate" the coachwork where any fluid has leaked. :wink:
 
Thanks Doc...We'll try the rebleeding before we go to reBUILDING!
 
A sure way to check the valve would be to test the switch outside the mechanism to see if it even works... ohm it in both positions. If it does function (open when in the "normal" or out position, closed when the pin is depressed). Reinstall it into the hole and ohm it again... If it is still open, the shuttlecock is centered.

HTH!
 
Thanks...we'll try that also.
 
RATS!!! Typed a long post and lightening apparently knocked me offline for a split second and it disappeared...trying again.

We have brakes again!! As we used to say when we were flying for a living "we must have had a short between the headsets." We were bleeding with a tube in a jar of brake fluid and THOUGHT that it was sealed on the nipple...not. When we went to the old "finger over the nipple" on pedal release they did their job. Whew...glad thats over and was simple even though stupidity struck AGAIN. I think it was JP who said that we might be overthinking the problem...you were so correct. Thanks guys. Now if we can just get the carbs, etc. tuned and sorted out we should have a running car.

Gary and Carla
 
Good news, indeed!!

A bit of a niggling point, the spring going behind the shoes on the bottom should have the part that is long and sticks thru the shoe to contact the e-brake actuator should be on the top of the link pushing down.
 
So Doc...is it that my spring is in the correct place but the tip of the spring should contact the top of the e-brake actuator? Or am I confused on your explaination?
 
You got it. Placement is correct. The spring end should be on top of the actuator.
 
Thanks...I'll try to fix that
 
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