One step forward - and one step nowhere

[JPSmit]

So, planned on turning the engine on the stand but couldn't find the chain. Did however get the water pump housing on to put the lifting loop.

Then turned my attention to the rear axle. Got the second side brakes rebuilt & installed, bearing installed, hub still needs to be painted but soon.

Here's tonights question. I can't get the axle stable enough to torque the pinion oil seal up to 140 lb. have it to 70 lb. but that's it - any suggestions?

thanks all

 

[jlaird]

Assume the rear end is out of the car, wedge it in a door way.

 

[JPSmit]

Not exactly picturing it Jack - It will solve the axle torquing around, but I still need to hold the pinion from spinning. All I can think of right now is a reasonably heavy steel flange with two holes - to grab 2 of the four holes, bolted to a long 2X4 - or something

 

[jlaird]

How about a pipe wrench, thats is what I used, brace it on the floor.

 

[tosoutherncars]

I'm so confused... we need pictures!

 

[JPSmit]

I'm so confused... we need pictures!

Duncan - it's the nut on the end of the flange that connects to the drive shaft - (bottom right corner - by part # 28)

The prob is at 140 lb torque it wants to spin the whole axle - even with my son & I standing on it

 

[jlaird]

Put the pipe wrench on the outside of that flange braced against the floor, have son stand on axle, go for it.

 

[regularman]

Another way is to remove the pumpkin and put something in the gears like bronze or something. You might need to clean out in there anyways.

 

[Bugeye58]

Or, make a tool like this:

Jeff

 

[jlaird]

Agree, the tool is the answer.

 

[JerryB]

""""""axle stable enough to torque the pinion oil seal up to 140 lb. have it to 70 lb. but that's it - any suggestions?"""""

As long as your manhandling things ....2 5/16 bolts in two adjacent holes in the pinion yoke flange and a long pry bar. Nut on either side of the flange.

Now the problem with trying to torque to 140 ft/lbs is that it's pretty tough to do this with a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

You shouldnt be using any particular torque reading....you should be replacing the nut in the exact same postion (o-clocking) on the pinion snout as was originally. you say you didnt mark the nut and the pinion shaft nose and count the revolutions? The correct way then is to remove the pumpkin and ring gear carrier and tighten the nut so just barely compressing the crush sleeve yo ar getting 30 in/lbs drag when rotating the pinion. then you stake the nut top to prevent rotation and use green Loctite after priming the showing thrads on the pinion snout.

You probably will find the torque reading using an OLD crush sleeve is well BELOW the 140 pounds. 140 is the starting crush point oin a NEW sleeve.

Plan b is to just do as you were doing.