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I picked up my cylinder head from the machine shop this morning.They skimmed .003 off the head to make it flat. Talking to the machinist and he mentioned, as others on here have, that there may be an issue with the figure of 8 gaskets at the bottom of the liners that is causing the leakage. As far as I can tell the liners are within spec of .003 -.006 above the block but I am going to have a mechanic friend measure them as well just to make sure. I had noticed when the head was off that one of the studs was loose near where coolant had got into the 2nd cylinder. He told me that when they do work on diesel blocks they put Permatex 59234 High Temp sealant on the head stud threads that go into the block to prevent coolant from coming up the threads. How common an issue is coolant leaking up the stud threads on the TR3 cyl head? I may pull the studs and apply the sealant there. I do have a tube of Permatex Optimum Red high temp gasket maker.....would that be better to do the job?
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TR2/3/3A One more coolant leak cylinder head question.....
- Thread starter karls59tr
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CJD
Yoda
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Karl, a couple questions...
First, if I remember correctly, isn't this the block that dumped all the coolant into the block? If it is, you should absolutely pull the liners and change the FO8 gaskets. Of course, if you already have, then disregard this.
.006" is only slightly on the high side, so I don't think the liner protrusion is a problem.
Concerning the studs... The studs are normally dry. In other words, the holes drilled and tapped into the block are not all the way through to the coolant jacket. It is only if the stud holes have cracked that there is a path for the coolant to travel from the jacket to the stud, and then up the stud and into the rocker area above the head. At most it will be a slow leak. I am not familiar with sealing a crack (or rather have never had any luck), so cannot recommend how to do it.
First, if I remember correctly, isn't this the block that dumped all the coolant into the block? If it is, you should absolutely pull the liners and change the FO8 gaskets. Of course, if you already have, then disregard this.
.006" is only slightly on the high side, so I don't think the liner protrusion is a problem.
Concerning the studs... The studs are normally dry. In other words, the holes drilled and tapped into the block are not all the way through to the coolant jacket. It is only if the stud holes have cracked that there is a path for the coolant to travel from the jacket to the stud, and then up the stud and into the rocker area above the head. At most it will be a slow leak. I am not familiar with sealing a crack (or rather have never had any luck), so cannot recommend how to do it.
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Karl I’m with the others new copper fig 8 initially compressed with head and no head gasket to seat them, remove head and get you liner protrusion.
As long as they are all the same (that’s the critical bit) you should be ok
Studs “should” be dry and turned in by hand. I guess a small smear of “peace of mind” permatex or well seal could be used.
The dry thread torque figures are for the head with your choice of head gasket copper or composite
But for the correct bore.
As long as they are all the same (that’s the critical bit) you should be ok
Studs “should” be dry and turned in by hand. I guess a small smear of “peace of mind” permatex or well seal could be used.
The dry thread torque figures are for the head with your choice of head gasket copper or composite
But for the correct bore.
I thought I read you had a problem with the block under the head by number 2 that you sealed with something years ago, how about a picture of that area. Did the shop find anything wrong with the head? They probably tested the head for cracks. I have never seen a figure 8 gasket that failed. They are usually incrusted in place. Plus I would think if the liners are above the block then the figure 8 is sitting on that little edge that holds them.
Steve
Steve
I had sent a photo before showing an area near No. 2 that looked like it might be a problem but it cleaned up nice when the shop skimmed the .003 off. The shop pressure tested the head and said it was good. The block at the back of the head has minor cracking around the last two studs and that was the area that sealed well for 20 years with the RTV. The last start up with a new gasket(before the head machining was done) there was white smoke coming from the head under the manifolds....could not tell from where exactly but there was no evidence of leakage at the back of the block where I had added fresh RTV in that area. I'm hoping the newly flattened head solves the leak. I'm currently waiting for a new head gasket to come in. I'll post some photos. Karl
Karl