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OMG stop smoking already!!!!

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Hey Bill, I did set the valve clearance to .12 when the engine was hot. each valve had very slight drag similiar to what the university motors link described. I'm pretty sure I was spot on since I was able to perform this once prior with the help of Chris S during the initial build.

I figured out the damage for a rebuilt head with new valves, guides,springs and a manaflux would cost me with parts and machining around 275.00 and I would need to find a shop that would do it as well which I was clueless on.

I found a 1275 head on Ebay this morning and it seemed to be in great shape according to the seller and pics. He had some work performed on it such as a light resurfacing, seats had a light grind and it was magnafluxed. He said the valves and guides also checked out well and there were new valve seals placed.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/...190325118418&viewitem=&_trkparms=tab=Watching

I paid 150.00 but it seemed like a good deal since it was basically what I was going to do to mine. What do you guys think?
 
looks ok. likely saved your self a few dollars. Hope it works out. Be sure to post some pics of the cylinders after you pull the head.

m
 
Hi Roger:
Looks like a good deal to me - the seller has a great rating so the product should be good. Keep us up to date with the progress and as Mark stated post some pics of the engine with the head off.
Roy
 
Thanks M it seemed like a decent deal for what i'm trying to accomplish which is getting to drive my car someday without spending my life savings! I'll definitely take some pics of the cylinder walls and pistons when the head is off. I was thinking of performing this test on the head and the block when all is disassembled to get a better idea of where i'm at on #4.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=do4YKAJFcdw&feature=related
 
Get your Head yet?

mark
 
Hey Mark,
Yes! It came in the mail late last week. I was away all weekend but i'm heading to the garage tonight to remove the head that's currenty on there and perform a test for blowby. The head was in remarkably good shape and I am very pleased with the description the seller gave. All the seats look good no recision. The valves both exhaust and intake are in pretty good shape with no pitting to speak of. The head is also spotless with a nice flat surface where the head gasket will be. I have a payen head gasket being shipped from british parts NW as we speak so as soon as it gets here i'll install and i'm hoping i'll have some good news.

I do have one question when I remove the old head is there any advice/ things to watch out for? I've never done this but it seems like it would be pretty straight forward. I need to transfer the rockers and rail over to the new head. I can barely remember doing this with Chris S. Do I need any special tools or anything or does it just bolt right up? Thanks for all the help guys!
 
very straight forward - I trust you have a manual with the bolt torquing pattern. I presume that like the 1500 the whole rocker arm unit transfers as one piece.
 
I do have the manual both the Haynes and a restoration manual with some good pics. I'm going to read through it prior to torqueing the head. I'm pretty sure it moves in one piece as well. I'll have a better idea when I get to the garage and take a closer look.
 
You will have to remove the rocker arm to get to the head bolts. also remove the push rods and keep them in order. be sure to drain the coolant before you start. Be careful of the temp probe. you will need to reset you valve clearances when done. re torque after aa couple of temperature cycles and recheck the valve clearances. Would still like some pics of the piston bores....

m
 
Yes what silent unicorn said. Keep pushrods in order and check bores. Pics so this forum can analyze would be nice. Should'nt be any obvious scratch'es and assembly cross hatching should show signs of rings seating.
KA
 
Tonight is the night for sure. I forgot last night I had a tree company coming to my house to cut up some unwanted trees. I hate not having a garage it requires much more planning since the car is stored at a relatives house. I'll be sure to take some pics as well. I want to get everyones opinion prior to bolting down the new head.
 
Thats ok- i forgot to mention that you will need to pull the water pump too. Which means the radiator has to come out as well.


mark
 
Sooo last night I managed to get over to the garage and remove the head. Everyones instructions were very helpful and I was able to remove without any issues. I performed the cylinder leak test from the university motors you tube video. I added gas to all the empty cylinders and waited approx 15 minutes and all the levels stayed where they were originally. This was very good news. The cylinder walls are in good shape with minimal etching and no deep scratches or anything of that nature. I included a link to pics below.

When I looked at the valves I could tell right away that the build up was causing them not to seat properly however I performed the same test on the cylinder head pouring gas in each one with the plugs in just to verify. I imediately noticed that #3 leaked as gas was passing right by the intake valve. I also noticed a leak on #4 and #2 however they weren't as bad as #3. All the seats were full of oil deposits and build up. see pics. I'm pretty sure this was my problem but I am still wondering how it got this bad so fast? When the head was off a year ago I cleaned all of these valves and replaced one or two. I also lapped the seats with compound. By the pictures does this seem out of the ordinary to you guys. Also would the valves not seating porperly cause my car to leak oil into the cylinders and smoke like he!! or just cause poor compression? Thanks guys!

https://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Bbsm7dq1asX7g
 
It got that way because your engine was running rich, very rich.

Looks like maybe all that is required is haveing a shop lap the valves for good measure. If you look in the Hynes manual for one this is called decarboning and use to be a normal procedure from time to time.
 
I agree with Jack, very rich running. It is hard to tell from the pics of the head, but are any of the valves receded into the seats? They should all be about the same height above the head surface. compare them to your new head. Good news on the gas test (i cant believe Twist said to use gasoline!!) The bores look ok. Bolt the new head up and try it out. And tune those carbs. Hopefully the rich running didnt wash the walls down with gas and cause them to glaze over.

m
 
I'll have to start a new thread when I get the head back on to get some tuning tips. I remember tuning when I first installed the head but i'm pretty sure my choke cable was a little too short and hence always a little open. I have a new cable now but it's likely the damage was already done.

The valves dont look recessed at all however they seem to be sitting a bit proud. I think all the deposts are keeping them from making a tight seel all the way around. I'll let you know as soon as I have the new head installed how it's running. I'm still waiting on the gasket in the mail.

Another question on the re installation of the head. I was reading that no gasket sealer should not be used in the haynes manual however I used a copper gasket sealer when I installed the head originally. What is the concensus on this sealer or no sealer and what type?
 
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