• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

old parts - special procedures?

Salyers890

Senior Member
Offline
Hey fellas, sorry for posting two here, but i figured since they're so separate of questions, they deserve separate posts. . . . .

My rebuilt engine and trans have been sitting for i don't know how long before i bought them. I'm sure they're dry inside, but haven't dropped the pan or took off the inspection plate to check.

for the engine I was thinking of just dropping the pan and squirting mystery oil (with the red cap) in to the crank and piston chambers- then turning it by hand a bit to get it in there. . . . then putting the pan back on and filling with oil before i put it in the engine. . . . any suggestions?

for the trans i was just thinking of filling it with the appropriate gear oil and turning it by hand in all the gears before i put it in. . . any suggestions?

For the carbs - the parts are free, but stick a tad when i move them by hand - i was thinking for these i would use 3 in 1 or WD40 to grease them up before i smack them on. . .any suggestions?
 
You can prime the engine by removing the banjo bolt where the external oil pipe bolts to the block just behind the dizzy.
Pour in a couple ounces of oil, this will fill the oil pump, replace the bolt taking care not to loose or kink the copper washers. Remove the pligs, put a few drops of oil in the cyls and crank it over.
The tranny uses straight motor oil not gear oil. I like 20/50, the book says 30wt but the book was written before 20/50 was around.
If the carbs are sticking, remove the domes and spray them and the pistons with carb cleaner, do not mix them up, use a marker and mark the dome and carb body with a line so it goes back the same way on the same carb. one color on the front, use a different color for the rear. Makes it easy down the road too. Mark the dizzy to the clamp too when the timing is set so it's easier to pop it out and back when you have to later on.

Frank
 
Mike, if at all possible, pressurize the oil system prior to engine installation, to insure you get oil to all the bearings and the rocker shaft. I have an adapter that bolts where the oil filter goes, that I can hook a hose to and pump oil through the engine. You could also disconnect the oil feed line at the oil filter, and figure out a way to pressurize it from there.
Make sure you prime the oil pump, by removing the large banjo bolt, and pumping some oil down into the oil pump.
Filling the trans with 20W50, or whatever you plan to use, and running it by hand should be sufficient. I might tilt the trans around a bit, and hope oil trickles around places where it should.
As far as the carbs go, remove the dashpots, and clean the inside of the chambers, and the pistons with lacquer thinner, brake cleaner or some such solvent. Make sure the jets are centered properly, and the pistons should move freely.
It probably wouldn't hurt to make sure the float chambers are clean, and that the needle valves are working properly. As long as you're there, check the float levels.
You should be good to go after all this.
Jeff
 
geez guys - i can't tell you how much you're helping me - i was sweating bullets thinking of doing this job 4 weeks ago but now i have the confidence to do it - i'll shoot you all pictures with progress when i'm doing it. If you think of anything else i need to do, don't hesitate. better to find out before i screw things up (i'm used to finding out after, as i'm sure we all have experience with)

thanks,
Mike
 
Back
Top