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Old English white modern equivilent?

Andy65

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Is there a reasonably good match for touch up paint for Old English white that one might find at an auto parts store?
 
I've got an OEW BJ8 and haven't been able to find anything. I had a friend who has an auto collision repair and restoration place mix me up some, which matched quite well. But as far as I know, there's nothing available off the shelf that will do the job.
 
Hi Andy;

My TR4 is "Spa White" / Something between Old English and White on White: I`ve searched high and low and "No Go" for touch up paint at any of the Auto Parts Stores via Carquest, Napa etc:

Finally; I got my car "Scanned" by an Auto Paint Supplier (No Charge) & Its a Perfect Match:

I had to buy a Pint but Who Cares:

I believe this is your best bet!

See Ya;

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
toysrrus, thats the way to go having them spectrometer the original paint, your lucky they let you buy just a pint, round here ya godda buy at least a quart as you now know that can get pricey.
 
Best bet is to custom match the paint that is on YOUR CAR now. Paint varies from batch to batch and will change over time from exposure to sunlight and other environmental factors. It would help to use the same type of paint that is on your car (lacquer, urethane, enamel, etc.).
 
for small spots you might try ford wimbledon white. sample it and compare to the original finish, of course, before using.
 
During the winter, I was lead to https://www.paintscratch.com/ They didn't have a paint code for Colorado Red, but were willing to do research and come up with a code. I sent them some paint codes I found from the 1960's, they did the rest.

I bought some of the paint and I'm quite happy with it. My paint is now over 40 years old, but I bought the paint to do detailing in the engine bay. They even added the color to their website.

For a few bucks, it's a good place to start.
 
I took the boot brace ( I know it should be black but the PO paintd it when he paintd the whole car)to an auto paint shop. They matched it exaclty in a 4oz botle and mixed me a rattle can as well.About 40 buck total. It matches very well. I'm just afraid to use it. Any tips on how?
 
I tried the Wimbledon White from the auto parts store. It is a reasonable match for small nicks. I learned it was an older Ford color. If your car was repainted there is a good chance wimbledon was used. The other tips are great. Thanks
 
SHG said:
I've got an OEW BJ8 and haven't been able to find anything. I had a friend who has an auto collision repair and restoration place mix me up some, which matched quite well. But as far as I know, there's nothing available off the shelf that will do the job.
When the auto resto shop mixed up the paint, what type was it? I mean, if the car is painted (like most these days) base/clear coats what good is the can of paint? Especially if you have to paint clear on top of it? If your car was painted with single stage paint, then you're slightly better off, still have to color sand/buff etc. When my car was painted (base/clear coat) I too have a small qty that I use for the windshield posts, they always need touching up. I then follow up with "Eastwoods" Diamond Clear spray. Looks good, until I put the top up again.
 
tahoe healey said:
It matches very well. I'm just afraid to use it. Any tips on how?

Hi TH,

Are you trying to fill chips and scratches on single stage paint (no clear)? I first wash the car and clean the surface with dish detergent/water to remove any wax (or use a autobody wax remover product called Prep Sol) I build up the paint using a small brush or even toothpick, letting it dry in between coats until the dryed paint is well above the surface of the surrounding paint. Let it sit for at least a few days. Then I very carefully wet sand the new paint using either 1200, 1500 or 2000 grit paper with warm water with a few drops of dish detergent mixed in. Start with the 2000 to see if that is working on the fresh paint but most likely you need to drop down to the 1500 or 1200 and finish off with the 2000 at the end. I use a small hard rubber or hard plastic block to back the sandpaper to keep pressure even and be careful to wipe the water and check progress often. For scratches/chips the blocks are only about 1" square so you contain the sanding to small areas. Once the paint is flush with the surrounding old paint I use fine paint compound (3M finecut rubbing compound) and a rag to remove the fine sanding scratches. Then wax.

If you have a clear coat it can be a bit trickier. I use an air brush and thinned clear to recover the base paint. The clear is then compounded to blend into the old paint.
 
This may or may not help... You can call Terry's Jaguar and ask the experts if the British Leyland colors for Jaguar also applied to the Austin Healeys.



CODES by Paint Manf.
1= British Leyland
2= Dupont Lacquer
3= Dupont Enamel



Cream(Old Eng. White) 57-70
1. N/A -- 2. 8313L -- 3. 8313A

Old English White 71-79
1. BLVC250 -- 2. 32501L -- 3. 32501A

I didn't have the link, I hope that my homemade chart makes sense. I know that there were very few colours that weren't used by just Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc...

My 1975 XJ6C is Old English White, therefore I would have a touch-up kit made to DuPont's number 32501L if my paint was lacquer.

I would imagine the code for your Healey is 8313A in DuPont enamel and most shops would easily be able to duplicate a sample for you.

Keep us posted on the outcome, and check with Terry's, their website is https://www.terrysjag.com. There phone is 1-800-851-9438.

Best Regards,
Brian
 
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