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TR4/4A Okay guys-so how hard is it really to freshen up a TR4 engine?

So, did it blow up the first time you did it?

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I'm a third gen A.S.E Master Tech, nothing I have ever built has ever blown up. I did however burn a cam in a XR75 when I was 11. I forgot to put an oil passage hole in the head gasket I make for it. Other than that, everything else has been fine.


Of course, ass soon as I say that.... I can expect for the motor in question to come unglued....:highly_amused:
 
OK then - turns out the engine is actually seized, something to do with the plugs being removed sometime back in 1982 when the car was prepped for paint.

Just put some MMO down the bores, which is a hail Mary yes I know, but we'll see.
 
I'm a third gen A.S.E Master Tech, nothing I have ever built has ever blown up.
My point being only that there was a first time for all of us.

3rd generation, huh? The A.S.E. didn't even exist when I did my first car engine (which only ran for about 9 months before developing the same "holy" piston problem it had before. Never did figure out what the real problem was.).
 
I started reading Scott's reply to Randall and thought maybe I had wrote it. Age 24, check, first rebuild, check, TR4A, no prior exp., no internet, crude garage (I had the center stall in a 3 stall garage for a small apartment complex and a $40 starter set special of Craftsman tools from Sears much of which I still have and use, but the ratchets were replaced under warranty 2-3 times as were most of the screwdrivers that did work as pry bars, wedges and chisels!).

It turned out fine, no longer my car but still going last I checked after almost 30 years now.

Maybe we all have the same story because the guys whose engines blew up got discouraged and quit the hobby!
 
Great background in stories guys, much appreciated. I think I'm heading this way myself with this one and will write up a document it. I'll need lots of help so be careful what you encourage me to do-ha!
 
I started reading Scott's reply to Randall and thought maybe I had wrote it. Age 24, check, first rebuild, check, TR4A, no prior exp., no internet, crude garage (I had the center stall in a 3 stall garage for a small apartment complex and a $40 starter set special of Craftsman tools from Sears much of which I still have and use, but the ratchets were replaced under warranty 2-3 times as were most of the screwdrivers that did work as pry bars, wedges and chisels!).

It turned out fine, no longer my car but still going last I checked after almost 30 years now.

Maybe we all have the same story because the guys whose engines blew up got discouraged and quit the hobby!

And your tool set sounded very similar to what I started with (one small toolbox with Craftsman ratchet set, a cheap wrench set and screwdriver set, vise-grips and some borrowed torque wrenches (ft-lbs and inch-lbs)! Impact screwdriver was an early addition.

So I was doing this in 1984-1985. Sounds like yours was around the same time?

Scott
 
I must have done mine in '87, because it was the year after I got out of college. I don't think I had a torque wrench, but I probably borrowed on one from I remember when I started it the first time, first engine build, ran great for a few seconds, sputtered and died, and would not restart, the thrill of the first start quickly turned to apprehension of what I did wrong. Checked a couple things and turned out I was out of gas. Man that engine ran sweetly, smooth, great power, started easy, etc., I don't remember everything about the rebuild but I remember I ordered the big bore high compression kit from Victoria British, I was very pleased when I got Mahle brand, which are used in high end cars like Porsches and Ferraris.
 
Hi guys - Happy Friday.

I've had oil in the MMO in the for a couple week now and no dice. Assuming nothing magical happens overnight where the engine suddenly wants to spin over is my next step here to try pulling the head off to see what is going on?
 
Yeah, but I'm pretty sure the step after that is to drop the pan and start trying to undo the rod caps.
 
Pull the head first. You will probably see where valves were open one cylinder, moisture got in and seized that piston. If it was running okay when left to sit up, rings and bearing should fix it up. With gasket set, about $200 in parts will have it going .

marv
 
I agree, pull the head first. I'm not as confident as Marv that the cylinder wall on the bad cylinder won't be pitted; but there is no substitute for opening it up to see the real problem.
 
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