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Ok - tonights problem

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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well, I thought I had a solution for my brake pressure switch issue. went to check and ..... nothing

battery is good, I suspect solenoid since I just replaced it but, could be a starter wire issue also.

so, to isolate before I pull things apart, can I test the starter by running a jumper straight from the battery and touching the big bolt on the starter?

If so, do I run the cable from the positive or negative on battery? and do I keep the battery grounded?
 
Yes and yes, keep the battery grounded.
 
I think it's better to determine whether the starter solenoid is working--you should hear a definite click from it. Frankly, messing with hot 12V leads is a little scary to me--if you accidentally brush it against the car body, however briefly, you'll get a really impressive result--on the order of the "fresh underwear" level.

If you do this, I'd suggest disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery from ground, hook up the positive one to the starter, then connect the negative terminal to the battery to close the circuit. This way, no danger of accidentally grounding the hot lead.
 
That's right.
Can you spell W E L D I N G???
Melting wire?
Fire?

Just be careful.
 
Be careful! I would use a Multimeter instead of jumpers. Before I would try the jumper I would remove the switch from the tee and make sure it is not bottoming out and that the port is clear maybe spray it with some brake cleaner.I had a austin america that the switch was in so deep on the cross it blocked the hole on the switch and made the brakes seem spongey be cause of the almost brake bias knob affect of the switch due to it being so deep into the cross..
 
Your solonoid should look like #42 or #41 in the picture below.

Hook everything up as normal.

BE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL!

Use one cable from a regular automotive jumper cable to connect the two "big" wires going to the solonoid. There will be some sparks and the starter should turn.

This is eliminating the solonoid from the circuit.

I would suggest you wear gloves when doing this, but since you're Canadian, you're already doing that this time of year! :jester:

SPM-086.gif
 
thanks Nial - that's what I need to know - had forgotten that eliminates the solenoid. and yes grumble grumble gloves - hate winter - no signs of global warming - but NJ can't be that far behind? can it?
 
and just a very few minutes later we have isolated the problem as the solenoid and I didn't even need gloves

thanks all
 
yes they are - but will check again - BTW I had replaced the solenoid last week but don't recall that I had started the car since, so, it is the most likely suspect.
 
JP, because you have been playing around with the brake light circuit, the problem could be with the ignition switch. Connect your jumper cable from the (+) terminal to the spade connector on the front of the solenoid. If she turns over, the problem is with your ignition switch or wiring.
 
not sure which spade connector you mean - there are 4

just put in the old solenoid - still nothing

I'm stumped

I'm not aware that I have changed anything - other than the solenoid.

Now, when I hook up the battery - nothing. turn the ignition - nothing - no click, no alternator light - nothing. The trunk interior light doesn't come on (which is why I have to disconnect the battery)

However, battery shows 12.4 volts
When I put the screwdriver over the terminals, engine turns over.
all fuses show continuity

help!
 
OK, just went out to play some more.

should there be any power coming to the fusebox from the solenoid when the battery is hooked up - key off or on?

and, to review, I have on the top bolt - the battery cable

on the bottom bolt - the starter cable and a brown wire.

On the 2 spades under that bolt, one wide and one regular, both are brown.

on the drivers side middle spade, red/white
on the other side - the last one (can't remember the colour)

right?
 
I presume this is an - electricity is not getting through issue as non-switched things like the trunk light and the headlights don't work either - but where?
 
Go to the fuse unit and see if the #1 connection is "live" with 12V (it should be).

A red/green wire comes from #1 to a connector near the headlight switch. From that connector, you have live juice going to the light switch and a brown wire splits off the same connector and goes to the middle of the igntion switch (this brown wire is the "main power" to the ignition switch and should be "on" all the time).

If you don't have a live feed all the way from the fuse box to the ignition switch, you'll have a dead car and it won't matter if the solonoid is good or hooked up correctly.

The wire that goes to the solonoid and energizes the starter (turns on the starter motor) comes from the ignition switch and is red/white.

Sorry, I forget the solonoid terminal spade postions on these cars (mine has a Ford Solonoid).

I'm off to my FIRST Robotics Team and probably won't be back until late.
 
and #1 is closest to the firewall?
 
JP how about getting yourself a wiring diagram. I think you're close to getting into a situation of doing trial and error in connecting wiring and I see a potential meltdown and a wiring harness letting all of the smoke out in the very near future. Miss Triss would not like that at all. If you can't find a set I think I've got a schematic from a '76 in out in the garage but I'm sure they are on line and available if not for free very inexpensively.
 
Jim's advice is right on. The Haynes manual has the diagram you will need although I'm sure you can find one quickly on line. It sounds like you are already beyond the "quick and easy" stuff and the risks of releasing the smoke do become progressively greater as you delve deeper into the "Lucas Magic."
 
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