-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Oil
- Thread starter Raymond
- Start date
Share this page
Nunyas
Yoda
Offline
I think Purolator Pure 1 is one of the better filters available.
As far as oils go, I'm not so sure any more with the "reformulation" that's happened due to environmental regulations. Although, I've heard diesel oil still contains a lot of protectants that 'normal' engine oils had to reduce. Then again, I've been reading articles with differing views about engine oils these days. Some say you only need the heavy protectant additives during break in, others claim that you'll need them all the time...
Oh, I've been reading up on oils because of reports of flat tappet engines failing prematurely after rebuilds, and people claiming it's because the new oil formulations (thanks to the EPA) don't contain enough of the protectant additives needed to prevent cam/tappet failures. So, a lot of people seem to be resorting to using "break in" additives in their engine oil well past the normal break in period.
As far as oils go, I'm not so sure any more with the "reformulation" that's happened due to environmental regulations. Although, I've heard diesel oil still contains a lot of protectants that 'normal' engine oils had to reduce. Then again, I've been reading articles with differing views about engine oils these days. Some say you only need the heavy protectant additives during break in, others claim that you'll need them all the time...
Oh, I've been reading up on oils because of reports of flat tappet engines failing prematurely after rebuilds, and people claiming it's because the new oil formulations (thanks to the EPA) don't contain enough of the protectant additives needed to prevent cam/tappet failures. So, a lot of people seem to be resorting to using "break in" additives in their engine oil well past the normal break in period.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Castrol GTX 20W50 for the oil...filters vary by personal preference but most of us would probably agree that you need to stay away from FRAM!
R
RonMacPherson
Guest
Guest
Offline
You've been given the proper advice for the filter. Wix, K&N Gold(just rewrapped Wix).
As far as oil goes, I recommend any oil that you can find before SI, as it will still have zincdiphosphates in it, that help control scuffing(especially on camshafts). I use Yamaha 20-50 motorcycle oil. Costs about 5 at my local motorcycle shop.
As far as oil goes, I recommend any oil that you can find before SI, as it will still have zincdiphosphates in it, that help control scuffing(especially on camshafts). I use Yamaha 20-50 motorcycle oil. Costs about 5 at my local motorcycle shop.
Steve_S
Yoda
Offline
Hi Ron, where did you hear that K&N filters are rewrapped Wix? They appear to be completely different in design from any Wix I've seen. Wix does make Napa Gold filters.
Also, if you're concerned with the the zinc debate then you may want to check out the DAE oil I mentioned above. It's designed specifically for flat tappet engines. Motorcycle oil may not be ideal for larger, lower revving engines as found in cars.
Also, if you're concerned with the the zinc debate then you may want to check out the DAE oil I mentioned above. It's designed specifically for flat tappet engines. Motorcycle oil may not be ideal for larger, lower revving engines as found in cars.
R
RonMacPherson
Guest
Guest
Offline
Steve,
several years ago, one of the forensic engineers who is also a member of International Automotive Technicians Union(IATN) posted an analysis of filters available, who made them, quality of construction, etc. I don't think he compiled it, but it came from someone who did a lot of research.
K&N is manufactured by Wix, who also makes Napa Gold, and a couple of others. Can't remember the name of the other manufacturer who got top marks, but it was an agricultural type name.
He also did breakdowns on oils and a later post on antifreezes and brake fluids.
ZDDP was taken out of API rated oils by political manuvering of the auto manufacturers so as to preserve the life time of catalytic convertors. You'll find that the European oil manufacturers did not follow suit(they are doing so now, but slowly). Any oil that is rated after SJ has almost NO ZDDP. Has to be free to be rated by the API(Automotive Petroleum Institute). I recommend Yamaha or any other motorcycle oil that is still rated SG or SH. Those oils have the best "protection package" of additives in them. Or if you're travelling to Europe, buy their oil and ship it home. Over here in the middle of the Pacific we have not encountered(that I know of) the DAE oil. And I am fairly well up on the chemical/petroleums available here.
several years ago, one of the forensic engineers who is also a member of International Automotive Technicians Union(IATN) posted an analysis of filters available, who made them, quality of construction, etc. I don't think he compiled it, but it came from someone who did a lot of research.
K&N is manufactured by Wix, who also makes Napa Gold, and a couple of others. Can't remember the name of the other manufacturer who got top marks, but it was an agricultural type name.
He also did breakdowns on oils and a later post on antifreezes and brake fluids.
ZDDP was taken out of API rated oils by political manuvering of the auto manufacturers so as to preserve the life time of catalytic convertors. You'll find that the European oil manufacturers did not follow suit(they are doing so now, but slowly). Any oil that is rated after SJ has almost NO ZDDP. Has to be free to be rated by the API(Automotive Petroleum Institute). I recommend Yamaha or any other motorcycle oil that is still rated SG or SH. Those oils have the best "protection package" of additives in them. Or if you're travelling to Europe, buy their oil and ship it home. Over here in the middle of the Pacific we have not encountered(that I know of) the DAE oil. And I am fairly well up on the chemical/petroleums available here.
Steve_S
Yoda
Offline
DAE has been manufacturing lubricants for nearly 90 years and is a popular choice among the vintage car crowd. Their web site can be found HERE.
Their Super Speed Sport oil meets SG, SH, CD, SL and SH specs. The product info sheet can be found HERE.
Now get that motorcycle stuff outta yer engine! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
Their Super Speed Sport oil meets SG, SH, CD, SL and SH specs. The product info sheet can be found HERE.
Now get that motorcycle stuff outta yer engine! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
Baz
Yoda
Offline
I didn't specify a brand of oil because regionally, some are harder to find than others.
I use Valvoline VR1 because it's the only 20/50 my local store sells, and it has all the ZDDP in it. It's easy to find since I made the decision to axe the Castrol.
I use Valvoline VR1 because it's the only 20/50 my local store sells, and it has all the ZDDP in it. It's easy to find since I made the decision to axe the Castrol.
Rob_Edwards
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
You may be limited in your choice of oil filters. Unless your '69 has been converted to a spin-on filter at some point in the past, it will have the inverted canister style filter, making the other filter advice in this thread moot. These filters have a replaceable element inside the reusable shell:
(BTW -- item #52 in that drawing is a drain plug for the filter. It may make changing the filter a little less messy. I never got the chance to find out because I ditched the canister before I learned about the drain plug.)
It's widely regarded a good idea to lose the canister and convert to a later-style spin-on filter setup. To do so, you simply install a filter head from a later engine. Tony probably has one. Then, you can use one of the better filters people have recommended. I like the Purolator PL14670.
HTH!
(BTW -- item #52 in that drawing is a drain plug for the filter. It may make changing the filter a little less messy. I never got the chance to find out because I ditched the canister before I learned about the drain plug.)
It's widely regarded a good idea to lose the canister and convert to a later-style spin-on filter setup. To do so, you simply install a filter head from a later engine. Tony probably has one. Then, you can use one of the better filters people have recommended. I like the Purolator PL14670.
HTH!
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I do have them..whether or not a car has an alternator makes a difference between the inverted filter & regular....converting to spin-on is a simple yet positive modification.
OP
Raymond
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I have a spin on filter and im going to Napa later today to get one of their gold/Wix filters as far as the oil im going to look at the Iola Old Car Show this weekend to see if i can get any of the older Castrol or if we have some local resellers for the older stuff with ZDDP
thanks for all the great advice
Ray
thanks for all the great advice
Ray