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oil pump she nowa pump

shorn and dave,the reason i used maple for the plug and not anther wood such as pine is because the maple if shaped close enough will conform tighly to the hole without splintering, i drove it in very tightly a 10" channel lock was required to remove the plug, only the tip of it had oil on it not a single drop made it past its seal,the area around where the threads are for the cap in the outside of the block was not sealed,not a single trace of oil was there.i did first check the o.p. guage by applying a mettered 40psi then 100psi and the guage checked out o.k. today ill remove the line from the block and see if i can get some "more" oil on the garage floor, itll be the first time i hope i do!
 
There are few remaining possibilities for intermittant/no oil pressure.

Air leaks on the suction side are possible:
1- Pump drive shaft loose in the housing.
2- Pump bottom plate not sealing to pump.
3- Pump suction line/screen not sealead at all joints.
4- Oil level not covering pump intake.

Other:
1- Pump drive gear not turning or not turning it's shaft.
2- Driven gear in pump slipping on it's shaft.

A very strange situation. Sorry it is such a pain!
D
 
dave,having you and all us cats contributing in such situations is like swollowing a hugh aspirin to take away that pain, its what makes the b.c.f. such a wonderful place to hang and adds another dimension to our hobby, hay if all this stuff was easy anyone could do it! in all the years i banged around one these cars never once did i ever have to pull th o.p.r.v but these cars are alot older now so be me,i had to do alot of running around today and didnt have the time to work on "the beast" this afternoon but will do so in the new day, thanks, ill continue to post my findings
 
dave,keoke,shorn,randy,i removed the oil press guage line last night started the engine and not a drop of oil came out of the block, remember this is a new pump that bench tested o.k. the drive gear is correctly seated in the pump head and aligned on the cam drive gear,new gaskets on pick up screen etc. since i was going to pull the trans.and rebuild it for a sticky second gear synch. im going to pull the engine now as well its got bunches of miles on it and id feel better starting from scratch, stand by for eng. rebuilding tips/questions, thanks all.a7777
 
OK Anthony, have fun. But it seems like you may have a pump that simply will not self prime. It happens some times and they need external help to get going.-Keoke--?
 
Keoke said:
OK Anthony, have fun. But it seems like you may have a pump that simply will not self prime. It happens some times and they need external help to get going.-Keoke--?
keoke ive cosidered that but "external help"?
 
I don't know if this is done anymore or with LBC's, but years ago I remember packing oil pumps with vaseline which would help the priming process.
 
Hi Anthony,
When I assembled my pump, I put a bunch of engine assembly lube mixed with a little oil in the gears, a kind of thick slurry. From what I have heard, some people use Vaseline. Doing this creates a better seal so the pump can suck better for that initial start-up. Maybe try that first before tearing the whole engine down.

I guess I need to type faster or hit the refresh button before posting. That way I don’t look like a complete idiot (ref. Shorn’s Vaseline post). /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
Well Anthony, it be a PITA any way you go about it. However, I simply remove the Dizzy driving spindle get another one and cut the gear off then weld an extension on it and connect to to to your electric drill and spin the pump.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
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