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Oil Pressure Drops ???

George Zeck

Jedi Warrior
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Had a couple of incidents today while drive home. When approaching a light and taking the load off the engine -- after 30 sec of waiting the oil pressure would drop from 80 then to 50 then to 40 and then the engine would cut on me.

I pulled the choke when it started to die one time (this happened multiple time with city driving) and the problem went away and the engine sounded "healthy" again. Adjusted idle up on the carbs -- problem still happens, just takes a bit longer to develop. Car now sounds as if it is idling too high / fast now (buying a cheapy tach since I blew up my last one -- self induced idiotic repair).

Checked oil and it was fine. Noticed a small amount of oil under the car on the cardboard. Will look in the morning after replacing with fresh cardboard to confirm this.

Engine just has ben rebuilt and am at 450 miles of 500 mile break-in period.

After restart -- I noticed the fuel pump (I assume) sounds very loud. Get's slightly quiter as I go -- but given the fact that I can hear it over the exhaust leak concerns me and for some reason I belive that is culprit # 1.

Possibility # 1: For some unknown reason -- after a bit of time ( 30 min or so) -- the fuel pump heats up (which sounds dangerous) and flow is restricted. Becomes an issue w/o a load and engine is starved and dies.

Possibility # 2: Oil Pump is going bad. I forget and need to confirm with my friend if we used the oil pump from the old 1098 or it was replaced with the 1275 rebuild ?

Possibility # 3: With exhaust leak and 450 miles under my belt -- lack of back pressure has developed into a problem at idle ? (Probably a long shot since I've driven it significantly).

Exhaust leak == I messed up the connection between the exhaust pipe & manifold and didn't connect the two properly with the goofly clamp. More eager to drive that care about the excess noise.

Possibility # 4: Choke springs are too tight / new and pull too much when I don't want them too ??

I've pulled up via the search fumction the post on "losing oil pressure" and it didn't mentioned the car dies; just the guage reads abnormal for a brief amount of time.

Thanks all for listening and any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

George Zeck
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Hi Geo,
#1 is the most likely. It would be normal for oil pressure to drop as engine rpm decreases & oil viscosity decreases with increasing engine temp. #2 & #3 are not likely. #4 not likely because you said that pulling the choke helped.

The fuel pump or it's supply line could be restricted which would cause the pump to be more influenced by semi vapor lock. Or if the pump & line are overheated the problem would be made worse. I gather that the problem is worse as the engine warms up. Check for any restriction in the fuel lines such as semi plugged filters or screens. The pump should deliver about 1/2 pint in 30 seconds to the carbs.

There are other possibilities, but check the easy stuff first.
D
 
Make sure you have the proper ballast resistor with your system. This sounds exactly like the problem I had for years while I replaced the fuel pump, the carb, the distributor and nothing worked. Turns out I had the wrong coil. I switched to an internally ballast resisted coil and never again a problem. Learn from my mistake; before you go replacing tons of stuff, make sure you have the proper ballast resistor. If you do have it, then look elsewhere

JACK
 
It turns out my fuel pump was either bogus or under spec. Replaced it with one that has a higher output and drove the heck out it with no problem.

Tx All-

Geo Zeck
 
A hot A series engine will have 20 to 25 pounds of oil pressure at idle and 60 to 70 at speed. Don't worry that it fluctuates.

If your fuel starvation problem returns, make sure your fuel system is clean. A rusty tank can cause the same symptoms. It's the 'slosh" that makes it run fine, but stall and be impossible to re-start at idle.
 
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