Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
T
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Share this page
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
The oil pan is the last job on my list for the summer. No matter how hard I tried, the valve cover always leaked until I used a Si gasket. Unfortunatley they do not make these for the oil pan - I am not sure why. I replaced my oil pan gasket and I thought I had done a good job. After about six months it started to leak. I layed the oil pan on my table saw, and it seamed perfectly flat. I put the oil pan on again and even let it sit over night to make sure everything was dry. It leaked again after six months. The guy that makes the Si gaskets (he also owns British cars) said that the gasket material is harder now and does not seal as well. It is hard to believe that this would be the case for the oil pan. I don't know if the bolts back out or what. Did you do anything special to seal yours?
Kevin
The oil pan is the last job on my list for the summer. No matter how hard I tried, the valve cover always leaked until I used a Si gasket. Unfortunatley they do not make these for the oil pan - I am not sure why. I replaced my oil pan gasket and I thought I had done a good job. After about six months it started to leak. I layed the oil pan on my table saw, and it seamed perfectly flat. I put the oil pan on again and even let it sit over night to make sure everything was dry. It leaked again after six months. The guy that makes the Si gaskets (he also owns British cars) said that the gasket material is harder now and does not seal as well. It is hard to believe that this would be the case for the oil pan. I don't know if the bolts back out or what. Did you do anything special to seal yours?
Kevin
Online
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
Had this issue with the TR3. Often the leaks originate from the bolt holes in the pan itself. Years of over-tightening the bolts "dimpled" the metal just enough to create an escape route for the oil. One fix is to flatten them out gently on a flat surface with a small hammer and a good solid piece of metal that will fit the channel.
And then there's the RTV as mentioned.
Had this issue with the TR3. Often the leaks originate from the bolt holes in the pan itself. Years of over-tightening the bolts "dimpled" the metal just enough to create an escape route for the oil. One fix is to flatten them out gently on a flat surface with a small hammer and a good solid piece of metal that will fit the channel.
And then there's the RTV as mentioned.
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
Several ways of dealing with this.
I have dimpled the bolt holes "the other way". Ie taken a ball peen hammer and a socket, and pushed the flange out toward the head of the bolt. That will spread the pressure of the bolt out to a larger section of the gasket.
The other choice is the silicon as mentioned,
a third choice would be to figure that the drip means either:
"oh good, I still got oil" or
"it's just marking it's territory"
Several ways of dealing with this.
I have dimpled the bolt holes "the other way". Ie taken a ball peen hammer and a socket, and pushed the flange out toward the head of the bolt. That will spread the pressure of the bolt out to a larger section of the gasket.
The other choice is the silicon as mentioned,
a third choice would be to figure that the drip means either:
"oh good, I still got oil" or
"it's just marking it's territory"
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
Ayup. Flatten any irregularities in the pan mating surface, use a THIN film of RTV on the gasket, offer it up and torque all the bolts to contact and a few INCH-pounds. Allow the RTV to set and do a final torque, alternating side-to-side like it was a head bolt tightening sequence. It will NOT leak if done correctly.
Ayup. Flatten any irregularities in the pan mating surface, use a THIN film of RTV on the gasket, offer it up and torque all the bolts to contact and a few INCH-pounds. Allow the RTV to set and do a final torque, alternating side-to-side like it was a head bolt tightening sequence. It will NOT leak if done correctly.
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
I removed the oil pan in order to install new crankshaft
thrust washers (bearings). The thrust bearing project came
out very well. .007" endfloat.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Oil pan: First I cleaned the oil pan with a good grease
remover. Then I stripped off all the layers of exterior
paint down to bare metal. I left the inside as is.
The oil pan was a bit buggered so I straightened the bolt
holes dimples with a thick steel bar and a hammer. Then primer
and four coats of high temperature engine paint. I let
the paint dry a week.
As seen in photo, I installed a 1/4" wide bead of Permatex High-temp Red RTV Silicone. As per the directions I immediately laid in the Roadster Factory gasket and applied
finger pressure around all the bolt holes and over the bead.
As per instructions, I immediately installed a layer of the RTV Red Silicon on top of the oil pan gasket and installed
the oil pan.
21 bolts torqued to 20#, 2 bolts torqued to 5# with Loc-tite Blue.
I'm doing routine maintenance of the car underside and hope
to be off the four jack stands and in the street this afternoon.
regards,
dale (Tinster)
I removed the oil pan in order to install new crankshaft
thrust washers (bearings). The thrust bearing project came
out very well. .007" endfloat.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Oil pan: First I cleaned the oil pan with a good grease
remover. Then I stripped off all the layers of exterior
paint down to bare metal. I left the inside as is.
The oil pan was a bit buggered so I straightened the bolt
holes dimples with a thick steel bar and a hammer. Then primer
and four coats of high temperature engine paint. I let
the paint dry a week.
As seen in photo, I installed a 1/4" wide bead of Permatex High-temp Red RTV Silicone. As per the directions I immediately laid in the Roadster Factory gasket and applied
finger pressure around all the bolt holes and over the bead.
As per instructions, I immediately installed a layer of the RTV Red Silicon on top of the oil pan gasket and installed
the oil pan.
21 bolts torqued to 20#, 2 bolts torqued to 5# with Loc-tite Blue.
I'm doing routine maintenance of the car underside and hope
to be off the four jack stands and in the street this afternoon.
regards,
dale (Tinster)
hondo402000
Darth Vader
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
When I pulled my oil pan off to install new Thrust washers, I found the oil pan to be loose and probably the reason oil was leaking so bad, the gasket had RTV as the glue and when I pulled the pan there was RTV chunks in the Sump and also in the screen of the oil pump.Good thing it didnt make is past the oil pump screen, or did it??? I dont think RTV works that well on gaskets that come in contact with oil, it seems to swell up, I bought some urethane calk and glued the oil pan gasket to the pan let it dry and put the urethane calk on the block and put the pan back on. That was at least one year ago and so far no leaks yet
Hondo
When I pulled my oil pan off to install new Thrust washers, I found the oil pan to be loose and probably the reason oil was leaking so bad, the gasket had RTV as the glue and when I pulled the pan there was RTV chunks in the Sump and also in the screen of the oil pump.Good thing it didnt make is past the oil pump screen, or did it??? I dont think RTV works that well on gaskets that come in contact with oil, it seems to swell up, I bought some urethane calk and glued the oil pan gasket to the pan let it dry and put the urethane calk on the block and put the pan back on. That was at least one year ago and so far no leaks yet
Hondo
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
Yup Hondo !
Great personal satisfaction learning how
to remove and install an oil pan, I'll tell ya.
If it leaks I'll try your urethane caulk
method. Happy I've mastered a new Triumph skill.
best regards,
d
PS: I've got a new 17" diameter, chrome anchor
for the tarpon boat!
Yup Hondo !
Great personal satisfaction learning how
to remove and install an oil pan, I'll tell ya.
If it leaks I'll try your urethane caulk
method. Happy I've mastered a new Triumph skill.
best regards,
d
PS: I've got a new 17" diameter, chrome anchor
for the tarpon boat!
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
Chrome, are you sure that it is not a sparkler lure?Tinster said:
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
tdskip said:
Offline
Re: Oil pan, no leaks
After suffering for years with a rear seal leak on my Spitfire (and replacing said seal twice) I am finally hoping that putting new rings in will fix my problem once and for all. The "new" rings installed when I last had the motor rebuilt I discovered had gaps that were more that twice the max allowed gap. I suspect that was causing too much crack pressure and thus causing oil to blow out the back end when I'd shut the motor off. I've got new ring in now and in process of re-installing motor. Keeping my fingers crossed.
After suffering for years with a rear seal leak on my Spitfire (and replacing said seal twice) I am finally hoping that putting new rings in will fix my problem once and for all. The "new" rings installed when I last had the motor rebuilt I discovered had gaps that were more that twice the max allowed gap. I suspect that was causing too much crack pressure and thus causing oil to blow out the back end when I'd shut the motor off. I've got new ring in now and in process of re-installing motor. Keeping my fingers crossed.
