• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A oil pan bolts

Share this page

M

MKN

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
looking to work on my TR3A oil pan. There are 19 bolts. Moss looks to 17/18 of one type, and 2/1 of another. Any idea which 2 (or 1?) are different and why different?
 
The different bolt length(s) is to mount your breather down tube in it's location. Pretty sure it only fits one way...

Joel
 
All I can say for sure is this is the pattern I took off mine before fitting the aluminium sump.
One long where the rod that is the slave cylinder stay is attached to the sump bolt.
I cannot guarantee it’s original.
 

Attachments

  • 22FE4C56-C524-4694-8AB3-595F91EB9A62.jpeg
    22FE4C56-C524-4694-8AB3-595F91EB9A62.jpeg
    117.5 KB · Views: 127
  • FFEDF271-61B5-439B-804D-2A1D313D4C0E.jpeg
    FFEDF271-61B5-439B-804D-2A1D313D4C0E.jpeg
    210.8 KB · Views: 139
Harnish said it better. Picture worth 1000. The same bolt does also appear to be used on the breather, per the moss site, but I don't think it goes thru the oil pan flange.
Bob
 
Hamish Racing said:
All I can say for sure is this is the pattern I took off mine before fitting the aluminium sump.
One long where the rod that is the slave cylinder stay is attached to the sump bolt.
I cannot guarantee it’s original.
Click to expand...
thank you Hamish
 
It's really not that critical. Most are through holes, so lenght is not critical For the rest, you can use anything that fits.
 
Sarastro said:
It's really not that critical. Most are through holes, so lenght is not critical For the rest, you can use anything that fits.
Click to expand...
You don’t want too long bolts in the end bridge block as they are only Ali and will pull the thread if too long and you try and pull the pan up tight. At the side it doesn’t matter as they are through holes.
Also f you try the thicker cork gasket forget the torque setting 14-16ftlb I think??as it will distort the gasket a lot.
just comfortably tight to seal is enough
 
To follow on Harnish's slight expansion of the topic, prepare your pan for installation with moderate ball-peen hammer blows to each hole on the flange, from the top of the pan, so as to remove any upward distortion of the holes caused in previous installations. And rest the pan flange on a block of wood as you hammer.
Bob
 
Last edited:
Hey Hammish I was looking at your picture and did you shorten the breather pipe for racing. If so, does the shorter pipe have any effects on anything?

steve
 
sp53 said:
Hey Hammish I was looking at your picture and did you shorten the breather pipe for racing. If so, does the shorter pipe have any effects on anything?

steve
Click to expand...
Steve
The PO did it
Cut at the top of the up direction so no return direction to the road.
It’s connected to a vent tank that also takes valve cover vapour.
The new engine has the block vent sealed and the breather comes off where the fuel pump was.
 
Totally agree with Hamish on torque setting on cork gasket. Ask me how I know &%#!

Bob
 
Sorry for liberating the thread, so Hammish then your car does not drip oil at all because you catch the drips in a container?
 
Back
Top