Oil light is on

[TheSearcherMan]

Make sure that under the dash, you do not have the oil light and alternator warning lights reversed..........

 

[Brosky]

Randall,

Mine works with either wire connected. Somewhere I have a link to the thread from two years ago where we went into three or four pages over this same subject.

I don't disagree with you in theory, because that is what I originally thought, but no matter what I do with the wires, the result is the same and my oil light works properly and the ARV clicks on and off as it should.

Why it does that, I do not know. And I have a spare switch that I swapped during the previous testing. It reacts the same way.

 

[2wrench]

Changing my oil pressure switch. If I do not drain my oil, tell me which
of the following three oil leaks will occur:

1) Major-funky-oil-running-all-over-the-garage-like-happened-to-Dale-
with-Ole-Crypty drip;

2) A drip not quite as "1" above, but I'll need something to catch it
anyway; or...

3) Slow to no drip at all; or, finally...

4) No drip.

Please keep in mind you could mix and match the numbers so as to acheive
a most accurate description of what I might expect.

 

[TR3driver]

Let the engine sit until cool (you want to do that anyway, no fun changing a switch that burns your fingers), and (3) should be the most accurate description. No more than a tablespoon total, likely much less than that.

Of course, you can turn that into (1), by forgetting to install the new switch before you start the engine

 

[TR3driver]

Randall,

Mine works with either wire connected.

Well, there are 3 wires. Tell me which two you swapped, and I'll tell you what doesn't work right. Assuming of course that the remainder of the wiring is stock ("correct").

 

[Tinster]

Dennis- If you own a Triumph.... line item No.4
will never be present.

I've spent untold $thousands to replace oil seals,
master and slave cylinders, diffy seals, brake
cylinders, etc.............................

and I still have oil dripping on the garage floor.

Learn to live with it.

d

 

[2wrench]

Dale: You got a nervous chuckle outta me.

 

[2wrench]

I changed the oil pressure switch. Put the three prongs with the one in
the middle at the top; each of the other two prongs are at the sides, of course.

Top-most middle prong got the: Brown and white wire.

Left-sided prong got the: Black wire.

Right-sided prong got the White and purple wire.

I think this is correct. Problem is, I still have my problem.

Drove the car for ten miles tonight.

Oil pressure increases to 50lbs. on revving and driving 2,000 to 2,500 rpm's;

but, when it idles, it drops to 25 lbs.

At the end of 10 miles driving, oil pressure slipped below 25lbs at idle
or low revs while pulling into the garage. I shut it off.

Next I'm thinking to remove the oil pressure relief valve and just look at
systems. Also, as suggested above, I'll be checking my wiring. Want to
refer the Master's manual to identify by color the wires to assure they are
in the right places.

 

[Brosky]

Randall,

Are we talking about the three wire switch that I posted the diagram for three days ago or the ARV, which has two wires? I was talking about the ARV, not the oil pressure switch. I know how that HAS to be wired, which is why I posted the diagram.

 

[TR3driver]

OH! Well, I was talking about the switch. I agree, the two wires on the solenoid make no difference at all.

 

[TR3driver]

Also, as suggested above, I'll be checking my wiring. Want to
refer the Master's manual to identify by color the wires to assure they are
in the right places.

I don't put a lot of faith in diagrams and color codes, so I would suggest some simple tests :

1) Turn the key on (without starting the engine), observe that the oil light comes on.
2) Disconnect the white/brown at the switch, observe that the light goes off.
3) Leaving the WN wire disconnected for the moment, start the engine and take a short drive, observing that the light stays off.
4) Stop the engine and (optionally) enjoy a cool beverage while the engine cools off.
5) Reconnect the WN wire and disconnect the WP. Turn the key on, observe that the light comes on. Reconnect the WP wire.

If all of that passes, it's not wiring causing the light to come on; unless perhaps disconnecting the WN wire also moved it away from whatever it was shorting against.

 

[2wrench]

Don't want to get ahead of myself, but anybody know if I can attach
a cheaper/more readily available oil pressure gauge on the TR6 in
order to verify whether my pressure gauge itself is operating properly?

Haven't looked, but I suppose a new replacement made for the car would
get pricey.

or how about some kind of oil pressure gauge I'd screw in place instead
of the oil pressure switch? (maybe not so hot an idea, cause I couldn't
see it while driving).

You get the picture. I want to verify my oil pressure gauge for op.

Ideas/suggestions?

 

[2wrench]

I thought it would be worth coming back to note that the oil pressure
gauge on the dash has seemed somewhat sticky, at times. Like the needle
will kind of jump....like with some resistance and then...boom, it goes,
but it never jumps like from zero to 60 (sounds like a performance
rating); it will just jump, like, 15 pounds or so...and, this is not at
all consistent, but I have seen it happen. Thought it a little odd.

 

[Tinster]

Hey Dennis- we know my 2 cents aren't worth a penny BUT
I have to ask an obvious question.

1. Did your oil pressure gauge seem to function properly
BEFORE you did all the recent engine rebuild?

2. I'm probably wrong but the thing I believe to be my
pressure relief valve seems to be nothing more than a
spring for "adjustment". They are cheap-buy a new one.

3. The thing I believe to be my oil pressure warning switch
has a single spade. It also is very cheap. Buy a new one.

The very first thing I would do is take all three existing
components apart and clean them very well. Try the system again.

I'll stick my neck way out now.
I'm sure I'm wrong on this one.

At 900 rpm my oil pressure is 50#
at 2000 rpm I get around 60#
at 3000 rpm I get around 70#
at 4000 rpm I get around 80#

at a theoretical 5000 rpm - my car blows up and kills me.

d

 

[RonMacPherson]

Okay, remember the oil pressure is NOT the biblical statement of the engine.

Referencing Smokey Yunick. As long as you have 10 psi for every 1000 rpm(and remember this is referring to high performance race engines) your pressure is adequate.


Volume has more affect on an engine lubrication system than pressure alone. And pressure by the gauge can be disconcerting when the vehicle has high mileage.

MB had this same problem several decades ago. When their cars had a few miles on them the oil pressure gauge would not peg it self anymore. People were pressuring MB to have their engines rebuilt(by MB warranty) because they had lost pressure from when the engine was new.

So, MB fixed the problem. They replaced the gauges with lower reading. That way the gauge still stayed pegged.

If you are really concerned about the oil pressure, first thing to do is get a professional tool, mechanics gauge to plumb into the engine to verify what the reading ACTUALLY is. Several years ago, I switched gauges on my 73(tried the fascia chrome versus black affect). Got 8 psi difference at idle just with the different gauge......

 

[TheSearcherMan]

Are you sure you have the oil pressure bulb and alternator bulb in the proper bulb holders? Are you sure that the light that comes on is not the alternator light, in the oil pressure bulb location? You can tell by the wire colors in the wiring diagram which is which. Also, it is easy to buy an inexpensive gauge and oil line to hook up at the engine block oil line fitting, in place of the factory one. I have one.

 

[Tinster]

Searcherman- That was my first thought as well
when Dennis mentioned the light came on a low idle rpm.

It could very well be the wires or bulbs were Pedro-ized
by the DPO.

dd

 

[2wrench]

I get wordy. Sorry. I'll try to be brief. Take no offense, but I gotta
try to control myself or it will be a book.

First, please be patient with me. I am the one that "wired" the car when
I did the dash cap and wood refinish thing.

I am not so good with the wiring, but it looks like things are right to me.

On a tip to verify performance of the pressure relief valve, I put a washer
into the bottom of the valve housing in order to take up space and increase
the pressure of the spring within the housing. This did succeed in
increasing and holding the pressure at 50 to 75; 50 to 85 pounds while
running. At idle, again it goes low to 25, 23, like that.

Based on this, I will next order replacement parts: spring and whatever...
maybe plunger, huh?

I have relaced the oil pressure gauge. It's new. I am still suspect of
the oil pressure relief valve. Once it is replaced, if it doesn't work,
I'll be forced to tear into the wiring to verify.

Oh, and Tinster, my oil gauge has always seemed a bit irratic, even before
the rebuild, come to think of it. I can recall some similar episodes.

 

[2wrench]

Are you sure you have the oil pressure bulb and alternator bulb in the proper bulb holders? Are you sure that the light that comes on is not the alternator light, in the oil pressure bulb location? You can tell by the wire colors in the wiring diagram which is which. Also, it is easy to buy an inexpensive gauge and oil line to hook up at the engine block oil line fitting, in place of the factory one. I have one.

I am beginning to think my gauge in the dash is all right. Putting one at the engine block,
though, would isolate other problem areas, like wiring.

I'll be taking a closer look at these things as time affords. My eyes ain't so good,
but you wouldn't think it to look at me. I only put on glasses to read, which is quite
often, specially on the Forum.

I will be reporting my findings.

 

[poolboy]

maybe plunger, huh?

Not much can go wrong with the oil pressure relief valve,except the spring loosing tension AND the sealing surface of the plunger being worn somehow uneven and not seating completely. That I 've heard of.