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Oil Leak

donandmax

Senior Member
Offline
Subj. 1979 MG Midget 1500 engine..
I have a bad oil leak coming from the front of my engine. I even pulled the engine to check where else it might be coming from. I found NO other place except from the front of the oil pan. (Front main seal and timing cover gasket have been changed) I have changed the pan gasket 4 times and used plenty of RTV Blue silicone on both sides of gasket. I pulled that gawd awful aluminum cross bar, cleaned it up and the front of the block where it sits used plenty of RTV blue and new gaskets (including the wooden ones) assembled every thing back. Put the engine back in the car and low and behold instant leak from the same place. I took the oil cap off the rocker cover, started the engine put my hand above the oil filler hole and could feel air puffing out and it really leaked oil out fast. A steady run in seconds. Put the cap back on and it slowed to a steady drip drip drip.Anybody have any ideas ? I've about given up. This has been a problen since I bought the car 2 yrs ago. Could I have a bad oil pan. It looks ok to me. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Don
 
Sounds like an unusual problem. You said that when you take the cap off it leaks harder, correct? It seems that your crankcase pressure is good if the leak slows. Hmm.

I run my crankcase open (valve cover breather to atmosphere). I have only minimal leaking, so I'm not sure what might be the problem. What is the condition of the engine? Is there a lot of blow-by? This might exacerbate the situation.
 
Don, there is a paper gasket between the front engine plate and the block. If this is bad, it will leak like the proverbial sieve, and it looks to be an oil pan leak.
May be worth looking at.
Jeff
 
Jeff, I just pulled that engine. Tell me I don't have to do it again because if I do have to change that gasket I think I'll just let it leak..WHAT A NIGHTMARE !!
Don
Thanks
 
Don, I don't know if there is enough room to change that gasket with the engine in place. The crank pulley, timing chain, and gears have to come off to do it.
Use your own judgment, but the leak won't cure itself. Yanking the engine isn't that big of a deal.
Jeff
 
And don't the mounts attach to it?
 
Yep, that is really the front motor mount attachments.
 
I think you could replace the gakset in the car with lots of creativity, but honestly it would be as much work as removing the engine, and a lot harder on your back. But if getting the engine out is just out of the question, I think you could remove the oil pan, then put a 2x4 across the bottom of the engine and use it to jack the engine off of the mounts. Then you would have to remove the water pump housing and the radiator as well as pull the steering rack off of it's mounts.

BTW, I hate to bring this up, but what are your compression numbers? If you have a lot of blow by, your leak will just appear somewhere else.

If you do have a lot of blow by, the only way to stop your leaking problems will be to fabricate a system that will keep a vaccum on your crankcase vent, or, I hate to say it, overhaul your engine.
 
Morris Im not aware of a crankcase vent. The only vent I know of is the one on the right side of the valve cover and it is hooked up to the fitting on the front of the carb and front canister. Ionce connected that line to just the carb(bypassed the canister) and the oil just poured out of the front of the engine.(motor running of course)as soon as I put it back properly the oil slowed to a drip.I also took the oil filler cap off started the engine and oil again poured out of the front of the engine.When I put the cap back on it went back to just a slow drip. Don't know what gives there.Also when I let the oil drop to the lower mark on the dip stick the drip seems to stop and I can drive 7 or eight hundred miles with no loss of oil. Ive worked on American engines for years and never had an experience like this. All the "wrenches" I talk to are also miffed.
Don
 
[ QUOTE ]
The only vent I know of is the one on the right side of the valve cover and it is hooked up to the fitting on the front of the carb and front canister.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, that's what I meant when I said crankcase vent.


BTW, I have never tried doing the front plate gasket the way I suggested above. But I did just have my engine all a part recently, and I think that what I suggested might work. Still, I think pulling the engine is the way to go if possible.
 
an engine lift can be bought for under $200 at harbour freight....my b-day is monday, cross ur fingers ; ) haha
 
Autozone also sells a nice engine lift. I got mine from them, and it cost less than $200. Well built, and folding (good for saving space).
 
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