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TR6 Oil in the coolant in my TR250

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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Doing a bunch of work on my TR250 as mentioned in another post. Decided to replace some coolant hoses so I of course had to drain the system' Well surprise a couple of hours later with a slight layer of oil film on top. Not a bunch but enough to make me nervous.
Couple of years ago I had some oil in the overflow bottle so I drained it, flushed the system then retorque the head. Good for years until now. Back then someone said not enough to be coming from the head and might be coming from a certain bolt in the front of the engine. Does anyone know of any other place this could be coming from other then the head gasket?

On a side note too my heater motor makes a bunch of noise when cold. Once heat is blowing through the car it quiets down. Don't see where any parts suppliers supply a new motor. Any idea where I can get one?
 

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I have always put sealants on the threads of the thermostats bolts as not to rust to block but I am not sure if oil can get through. If it is a brush motor maybe just a cleaning and service I will look at my extra heater. I am keeping it for the day mine fails. Look at Grangers supply they seam to have motors for just about any thing. You need only 12 volts DC and shaft size. Madflyer
 
The motors do that, squeal on start up, then quiet down. and unfortunately are kind of a pain to get to, lube may help. I have replaced with used, don't think that are available new, not a very complicated set up, as Madflyer said with a little research you could probably engineer a solution.
 
Took the over flow bottle out and it had a good 1/2" of oil in it.

I've got a lot out from under the dash and probably even more to come out. Looks like the line for the oil gauge is leaking. Wires behind the gauges are oily. This keeps up and I'll have the entire car apart again.

I have a heater box from a 1970 TR6 maybe I can disassemble it and see what i can figure out.
 
There are three lines that I have add or replaced with braided lines Clutch slave line oil pressure gauge and added a oil line to the top of the head. If you do not have water in your oil pan and or dip stick. there is still a chance that you have a crack between a cyl and water jacket of your block this can be repaired. Start with a cyl pressure test or leak down test. Spark plugs may not show anything. Madflyer
 
Nothing I have noticed. Changed the oil last summer and I'm always looking signs of failure. No bubbles on the stick ether. Thinking about it some more about the front bolt that fastens the water pump housing to the block. Doesn't one go through the block and into the crank case? Could that be leaking?
I did get my gasket kit in today. Hoping not to use it.
 
As some of the bolts are longer than others they do not look to go through in to oil sections of the block. And if so they would be on the non pressure side of the pump your block is really Neg pressure and water is Pos pressure as per Rad cap. In all I would say flush the system as in water and refill. Test by this means One start car with Rad cap off you should see no movement in Rad. as Thermostat is closed. Two when temp opens Thermostat and steam comes and water flows to operating temp at idle for say ten min. cool drain and check fluid again this can be done with just water. a paper towel will pick any oil. That will be your call if the sky is falling or your fluid just went bad. Madflyer
 
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