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Oil in rear carb

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Check the oil feed line to see if it is crimped. Mechanics a long time ago crimped the line to slow down the oil gushing. Mine was one of those done that way. Too bad I didn't know what to look for when I bought my Healey back in '72 and why would I question a Ferrari repair facility who did the engine overhaul.
 
IMO a critical thing is the lack of baffle below T connection.

I too have the Ray Juncal valve cover. I made a sheet aluminum baffle to fit below the opening like an upside down rooftop. If I recall, I used a wire clip to hold it to the inside of the tee. A toggle bolt would work.
Sorry, no picture this time.
 
steveg said:
IMO a critical thing is the lack of baffle below T connection.

I too have the Ray Juncal valve cover. I made a sheet aluminum baffle to fit below the opening like an upside down rooftop. If I recall, I used a wire clip to hold it to the inside of the tee. A toggle bolt would work.
Sorry, no picture this time.
Click to expand...

What's the purpose of the baffle? Why didn't Ray incorporate it in his design, being the original covers used one. Can you draw a sketch of what you made Steve?
 
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Not able to take the valve cover off right now. It's somewhat like this:
_20160520_191608.jpg

I used a springy piece of wire to hold it up against the roof of the valve cover - by latching inside the crosspiece of the "T".
 
AUSMHLY said:
What's the purpose of the baffle? Why didn't Ray incorporate it in his design, being the original covers used on. Can you draw a sketch of what you made Steve?
Click to expand...

Pictures of an OEM one below....



op1.jpg



op2.jpg



op3.jpg
 
It's more important to establish if there is blowby and hence the condition of the bores and Pistons IMO. Why not take the crankcase breather pipe off the rocker cover one while the engine is hot and ticking over and see how much it is puffing and smoking. You could also see if there puffing or pressure from the rocker cover, rather than oil splash from rocker feed.

if the engine is good, there's virtually nothing from either, but back in the sixties, we tolerated high oil consumption and oil dripping from the rear air filter
 
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=123078&SortOrder=1

I bought one of these prior to MOSS starting selling and put it on my mini. It has a baffle but was pulling in oil probably because the oil pressure is very high. Runs at 100psi or the gauge is wrong. This collects a lot of oil prior to getting to the carb. I empty it every 500 miles and the oil is dark. The oil in the pan is still light color like it never gets the soot, and has been clear for 2000 miles. No more oil smell coming from the tailpipe and this should work on a Healey also. My Healey rear carb is more oily than the front but was never as bad as the mini.

Jerry
 
First off, the OP going in and changing things after the mechanic worked on the car, and taken it back is a surefire way to get under the mechanic's skin__HOW can he warranty any work, if the car owner takes it home and redoes things?

Secondly, if the OP IS CAPABLE of understanding and making said changes, WHY take it to the mechanic?

Those are just some personal observations, and as we all know, opinions can be worth nothing. No offense intended, of course! ;)

It was said to me long, long ago by a mechanic who'd earned his stripes, that "loose valves won't cost you money, tight ones will!" So just because you can hear them, it doesn't mean that you shouldn't. The intake valve lash matters less, as it it always getting a cold blast of air and fuel every time it opens, but the exhaust valve lives a much harder life, and the only chance it gets to dissipate heat is during its brief contact with the seat. The tighter the lash, the shorter the contact dwell.

The oil in the rear carb would've been enough to convince me, but to see the rocker-arm oil outlets peen'd over seems conclusive; work rockershaft and bushes! Those outlet holes serve a purpose too: that tricke of oil lubes the rocker tip/valve stem contact points, so closing it off completely accelerates wear there.

For an in service update on Rocker Arm Rebuilder's work, you might ask Jim, aka healeyblue, as they were used when rebuilding the engine that he looks after.

Obligatory pictures...

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"First off, the OP going in and changing things after the mechanic worked on the car, and taken it back is a surefire way to get under the mechanic's skin__HOW can he warranty any work, if the car owner takes it home and redoes things?"

"Secondly, if the OP IS CAPABLE of understanding and making said changes, WHY take it to the mechanic?"

"Those are just some personal observations, and as we all know, opinions can be worth nothing. No offense intended, of course!
wink.png
"

Randy, you know not the entire story, so please, your assumptions, personal observations, opinions and voicing them here... I shouldn't have to defend myself. The OP.

Guys, (Randy excluded, No offense intended, of course ;)) I've known my mechanic for a long time. I've spent many days helping him at his shop when he needs it. He's a one man show. I help with the things I know how to do or what he explains how to do. We help each other out. It's not a business deal where I go back as a "warranty". We're friends, and I wouldn't do anything to upset that.

I don't know how to adjust the valves. After he adjusted the valves I left. Next day car would almost stall at a stop. Brought it back, he adjusted the carbs. Next day same problem, would stall at a stop. Rather than bring it back again, I checked the timing, it was off. He told me years ago, first thing one should do in a tune up is check timing, spark plugs, points, cap, wires, adjust carbs last. Being the timing was now changed, I took it for a ride, still wanted to stall. So I checked the cap, wires, plugs then carbs figuring the timing affected them. I explained all this to my mechanic. He understood and thinks there is something wrong with the rear carb, as he again spent some time trouble shooting. He also pointed out the ping in the rocker arms (done by previous owner) and thinks we should address that with a rebuilt unit. Last thing he told me to check is the rubber washer under the slow adjustment screw in the rear carb. I appreciate his help and his trouble shooting. I'm trying to help him trouble shoot by visiting this forum and I appreciate your help, as always, since 2005 when I became a member. Cheers.
 
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Interesting how one situation leads to another. I've been enlighted that my aftermarked valve cover does not have a baffle.
I can make one (like the original has) and JB weld it in place. Did the original have any kind of removable filter?

Here's some photos of the original (quarter for my reference for size), and a quick example of a piece of metal I found and bent to mirror the original.
Any thought if this plate design would be ok?
thumb_IMG_1822_1024.jpg
thumb_IMG_1825_1024.jpg
thumb_IMG_1824_1024.jpg
 
I would be afraid that the atmosphere under the valve cover might not support any adhesive, and the falling baffle could do damage. A physical attachment would be preferred, like the one already offered.
Bob
 
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