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TR6 Oil for TR6
- Thread starter Colin_D
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Castrol 20W50.
It's required by law.
Bill
It's required by law.
Bill
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[ QUOTE ]
Castrol 20W50...required by law.
[/ QUOTE ]Wow, I did NOT know that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Fortunately, I've been obeying that law for several years now. It's what I use in the Herald 1200, and it's done me well.
Perhaps more importantly, 20W/50 was the factory recommendation for the TR6. And I happen to be a long-time Castrol fan. If your engine is in very good condition and does not use or leak copious amounts of oil, synthetic might well be a good investment, with (arguably) better lubrication and possibly better fuel mileage. But I don't think I'd bother with synthetic unless I put substantial mileage on the car each year through regular use.
Castrol 20W50...required by law.
[/ QUOTE ]Wow, I did NOT know that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Fortunately, I've been obeying that law for several years now. It's what I use in the Herald 1200, and it's done me well.
Perhaps more importantly, 20W/50 was the factory recommendation for the TR6. And I happen to be a long-time Castrol fan. If your engine is in very good condition and does not use or leak copious amounts of oil, synthetic might well be a good investment, with (arguably) better lubrication and possibly better fuel mileage. But I don't think I'd bother with synthetic unless I put substantial mileage on the car each year through regular use.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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I recently received a severe warning from the State Oil Cops for having a spare quart of Quaker State 20-50W in my trunk in case of emergency. This was after I had proven that Castrol was in the crankcase. I went to my local auto supply and purchased a case of Castrol and showed the Oil Cop the receipt, after which I was given a stern lecture and told to never let it happen again
Why does everyone insist on referring to the owners manual as Gospel?
We discussed this a few weeks back and while I generally agree with TR6BILL, I need to remind folks that "The Law" according to Triumph was written into the owner's manual well over 30 years ago, eons before many significant advances in modern oil technology. 20W-50 is an "excellant choice for high temperatures, heavy load, and high revving engines." Plus, "Castrol GTX is engineered to provide maximum protection against BOTH viscosity and thermal breakdown." Read between the lines here; I don't think TR's run particularly hot as cars go, nor do I think they undergo great load. So I don't feel heat or load are the greatest issues when choosing an oil for these cars (unless yours is a daily driver towing a trailer in the southern US) Yes, 20W-50 has great viscosity endurance, and for Bill in Louisiana that's fine, but it's also considerably thicker in cold weather startup when, as we all know, engines are prone excessive wear due to lack of oil pressure. That, I feel, is the more pressing issue here.
In conclusion, you can swear by the ancient dead sea scrolls found in your glovebox, or take note in what's going on out there with the new, super premium SJ class of oils. For many TR's out there sitting in their cold northern garages during the winter, the monthly startup is far more critical than all of this talk about heat, RPMs, and load. Depending on climate, for the northern half of the US, I say go with either a 10W-40 or, dare I say it, 10W-30. As for Colin, he lives in Mass., so I think this is particularly important.
By the way Colin, of equal importance, if you haven't already done it, replace the canister filter with a new spin on. Use Fram filter PH-3600. Good luck.
We discussed this a few weeks back and while I generally agree with TR6BILL, I need to remind folks that "The Law" according to Triumph was written into the owner's manual well over 30 years ago, eons before many significant advances in modern oil technology. 20W-50 is an "excellant choice for high temperatures, heavy load, and high revving engines." Plus, "Castrol GTX is engineered to provide maximum protection against BOTH viscosity and thermal breakdown." Read between the lines here; I don't think TR's run particularly hot as cars go, nor do I think they undergo great load. So I don't feel heat or load are the greatest issues when choosing an oil for these cars (unless yours is a daily driver towing a trailer in the southern US) Yes, 20W-50 has great viscosity endurance, and for Bill in Louisiana that's fine, but it's also considerably thicker in cold weather startup when, as we all know, engines are prone excessive wear due to lack of oil pressure. That, I feel, is the more pressing issue here.
In conclusion, you can swear by the ancient dead sea scrolls found in your glovebox, or take note in what's going on out there with the new, super premium SJ class of oils. For many TR's out there sitting in their cold northern garages during the winter, the monthly startup is far more critical than all of this talk about heat, RPMs, and load. Depending on climate, for the northern half of the US, I say go with either a 10W-40 or, dare I say it, 10W-30. As for Colin, he lives in Mass., so I think this is particularly important.
By the way Colin, of equal importance, if you haven't already done it, replace the canister filter with a new spin on. Use Fram filter PH-3600. Good luck.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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Mine never really gets that thick in my garage, at least when I'm ready to run it, so even though I'm in the northeast, it never gets run when the temp is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I just simply won't do it, so it is suitable for me to use the Castrol 20W-50.
I have converted to the spin on filter and use the Fram PH3600, which was can spawn another debate with everyone having their own opinion as to which is the best filter brand.
Again, I feel that nothing is carved in stone, use whatever works best in your particular situation. All advice offered here is good, generally solid information based on users experience. Every day, new and better products arrive on the scene and this is usually the best place to find out if they work or not.
I have converted to the spin on filter and use the Fram PH3600, which was can spawn another debate with everyone having their own opinion as to which is the best filter brand.
Again, I feel that nothing is carved in stone, use whatever works best in your particular situation. All advice offered here is good, generally solid information based on users experience. Every day, new and better products arrive on the scene and this is usually the best place to find out if they work or not.
Agreed, and 40 degrees seems quite decent. With that in mind, how often are you able to start your car? There are differing opinions on this - like anything - but from what I've gathered, at a certain point one should consider storing the car properly. Four weeks is a pivotal period that many seem to throw out for this. Just wondering as I try to make that my goal during the chilly New Jersey winter.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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Well, living in RI and relatively close to the coast, does keep us in the warmer band of the winter, so we usually never gets extremely (zero - sub zero) temps around here.
With that being said, I try to run the car when I can drive it, if at all possible. I'll wait for good weather and clear unsalted roads to take it for a 10-15 mile ride, rather than running it in the garage.
With that being said, I try to run the car when I can drive it, if at all possible. I'll wait for good weather and clear unsalted roads to take it for a 10-15 mile ride, rather than running it in the garage.
Howard_The_Duck
Jedi Warrior
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I thought this was like the
"Gas Cap for Yugo" joke.
Fair trade! LOL
"Gas Cap for Yugo" joke.
Fair trade! LOL
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Why does everyone insist on referring to the owners manual as Gospel?...
[/ QUOTE ]Uh, maybe because it's from the same company that designed and built the car?
In fairness, the same manual I quoted before (factory Repair Operation Manual) does indeed specify various other grades of oil depending on brand as well as on air temp, referring to 10W-40s and 10W-30s for -4 to 30 degrees F. and even 5W-20s or 5W-30s for below -4 degrees F!
No question modern oils are a great improvement, and also no question lower viscosities generally make sense (as above) in colder temperatures. I guess several of us were "guilty" of assuming summer-type conditions....
Why does everyone insist on referring to the owners manual as Gospel?...
[/ QUOTE ]Uh, maybe because it's from the same company that designed and built the car?
In fairness, the same manual I quoted before (factory Repair Operation Manual) does indeed specify various other grades of oil depending on brand as well as on air temp, referring to 10W-40s and 10W-30s for -4 to 30 degrees F. and even 5W-20s or 5W-30s for below -4 degrees F!
No question modern oils are a great improvement, and also no question lower viscosities generally make sense (as above) in colder temperatures. I guess several of us were "guilty" of assuming summer-type conditions....
swift6
Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
In conclusion, you can swear by the ancient dead sea scrolls found in your glovebox, or take note in what's going on out there with the new, super premium SJ class of oils.
[/ QUOTE ]
The SJ class of oils are not necessarily the 'wunder oil' you might be making them out to be for our older engines. The newer oils have fewer and fewer anti-wear additives that are necessary for the extreme pressure of solid lifter engines, hydraulic lifters don't need these additives. These anti-wear additives are mostly Zinc and phosphates and are being phased out under cooperation between the oil companies and automotive manufacturers for gasoline powered engines because they shorten catalytic converter life. The result for our cars, those with solid lifters anyway, are increased cam and tappet wear as well as increased wear in the blocks. Not all older OHC engines get off so easily either.
The solution... Currently the only oils that still carry those particular anti-wear additives are in some Diesel oils and Racing oils. The reasons that the diesel oils are not recommended for gasoline engines is because of the catalytic converter failure associated with the anti-wear additives. The stuff our solid lifter engines need!
There was a good article on this in Hot Rod Magazine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
The article covers info on flat tappets, cams and rashes of failures in the last few years. Not just from cheap lifters... but it also covers the oils and such and specifically warns against low viscosity, high fuel mileage oils. The newer oils are for newer cars, not necessarily our older cars. Interesting article. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/square.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grouphug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
In conclusion, you can swear by the ancient dead sea scrolls found in your glovebox, or take note in what's going on out there with the new, super premium SJ class of oils.
[/ QUOTE ]
The SJ class of oils are not necessarily the 'wunder oil' you might be making them out to be for our older engines. The newer oils have fewer and fewer anti-wear additives that are necessary for the extreme pressure of solid lifter engines, hydraulic lifters don't need these additives. These anti-wear additives are mostly Zinc and phosphates and are being phased out under cooperation between the oil companies and automotive manufacturers for gasoline powered engines because they shorten catalytic converter life. The result for our cars, those with solid lifters anyway, are increased cam and tappet wear as well as increased wear in the blocks. Not all older OHC engines get off so easily either.
The solution... Currently the only oils that still carry those particular anti-wear additives are in some Diesel oils and Racing oils. The reasons that the diesel oils are not recommended for gasoline engines is because of the catalytic converter failure associated with the anti-wear additives. The stuff our solid lifter engines need!
There was a good article on this in Hot Rod Magazine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
The article covers info on flat tappets, cams and rashes of failures in the last few years. Not just from cheap lifters... but it also covers the oils and such and specifically warns against low viscosity, high fuel mileage oils. The newer oils are for newer cars, not necessarily our older cars. Interesting article. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/square.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grouphug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif