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Oil Filter BJ8 Spin on

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R

R&M

Senior Member
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Finished my 67 BJ8! The gang at Watkins Glen Gran Prix Festival will fianlly stop kidding me about registering the Healey for the last 3 years and showing up in my Triumph.

Any way to my question. What is the general opinon of the best spin on oil filter to use? I converted with the Moss kit when I rebuilt the engine. Is there a filter that does not drain back?

I appreciate the input and hope to see some of you at the Glen for the festival September 9th through the 11th.

Happy Healeying to all.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
Hi Dave,
I went to K&N's site, typed in KN-HP2009 and HP2009. The site did not show that filter. Am I typing in a wrong part number?

What is the correct part number, or where can I purchase the filter you recommend?

Thank you, Roger
 
I've got one of these filters at home and I'm about due for a service so I think I might install it. Does it replace the original cartridge housing and screw straight on or is there an adaptor of some kind that's required in order to install it?
 
There is an adapter that replaces the whole cartridge assembly at the block. You will need that to use a spin on filter.
 
My two cents.

With the Moss spin-on oil filter system, been using the K & N HP 2009. Seems like a good filter, if a bit pricey, and sometimes harder to find. Other alternatives that I use are NAPA Gold 1516, and WIX 51516. Was using spare Fram filters from my old SAAB 900 (wonderful cars), but as Dave Russell points out in an earlier comment, these are somewhat sketchy on quality, which is what I hear from my contacts at this end.

DB
 
FWIW, it's good to check the filter comparisons every few years as the filter offerings change. For example, Fram now makes 3 or 4 different filters of varying quality. There have been several comparison tests in the 10 years since 2005.
 
steveg said:
Wix on left; Fram on right:
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, these photos don't answer the questions (in no particular order):
  • What's the filtration efficiency?
  • How much dirt does each hold?
  • What models are each?
  • What material is the drain-back valve on each?
  • What are the pressure drops through each?
  • When were these photos taken?
 
Still, based on the photo, notwithstanding the good points that John Turney makes, the WIX filter on casual inspection seems to have greater filtering capacity. Interesting photo nonetheless, and thanks to Steve for posting. I guess if you change your filter regularly and often, filtering capacity becomes less of an issue, and more of a talking point around a couple of beers out in the man cave. I wonder how much better the spin-on filter system works when compared to the old canister type Crossland filters that are lurking somewhere in a dusty box in my basement.

Cheers

DB
 
davidb said:
Still, based on the photo, notwithstanding the good points that John Turney makes, the WIX filter on casual inspection seems to have greater filtering capacity. Interesting photo nonetheless, and thanks to Steve for posting. I guess if you change your filter regularly and often, filtering capacity becomes less of an issue, and more of a talking point around a couple of beers out in the man cave. I wonder how much better the spin-on filter system works when compared to the old canister type Crossland filters that are lurking somewhere in a dusty box in my basement.

Cheers

DB
Click to expand...
The two different filters I cut open validate the points made 10 years ago by The mopar guy linked to above. The fram is poorly made compared to the wix.
 
I change the oil and filter on my race cars after every event and always cut the canisters apart (with a filter cutting tool that does not produce metal shards) to check the filter medium in strong sunlight for shiny bearing material. I also examine the oil for signs of water/fuel dilution, etc.. Until recently I have used K&N filters exclusively as they are well made and available at my local Autozone. It is a fun exercise and gives me some peace of mind. I do the same with my 100 though of course relatively infrequently--maybe every 5K miles or one year whichever occurs first.

A few months ago I tried a Royal Purple filter on the Ginetta and when I cut it apart I had a very hard time doing so as there is a heavy fiberglass-type mesh encasing the medium. I have no idea if the RP's filtration is finer or better than the K&N or for that matter any other brand. I do, however, believe that its burst strength is superior and though I have never blown up a filter it is something to think about.

The selection of oils and filters is no place to scrimp on $$. I treat my race engines to the best and except when I have had a failure resulting from some internal part's breaking--as opposed to wearing out--I get a lot of racing hours between refreshes, etc. On our street cars I think that money is a non-issue given that they are driven relatively infrequently and the consequence of being chintzy on lubrication and filters is so high.
 
Side note: When I bought my Mustang I was a little chagrined to learn the recommended oil was Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-syn; the oil is relatively expensive--though less so than pure synthetics--and I had a case of 10W-30 so I thought about using it up. I checked a few forums and it seemed like some people were using 5W-30 and 10W-30 with no issues, but I decided to stick with the recommended, at least for the first few changes. Found out later that there's a known issue with Ford Modular V8s in that the hydraulic timing chain tensioners--whose 'rails' are made of plastic--would self-destruct if they didn't get lubrication immediately after start, and that could be caused by using 'thicker' oil. Lesson of the story: stick with the engineers' recommendations, unless you know for sure substitution is OK.
 
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