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Oil Feed Pipe to Dual Gauge

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M

mxp01

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Gentlemen:

I've touched on this topic before, but I need more guidance:

- I have a 1275 in my BE. I have a plasic pipe with brass fittings on both ends. One fits to the block, the other goes to a another brass fitting as the end of a copper pipe that leads to the dual gauge. The plasit pipe has a hole in it and leaks a lot of oil.

- I ordered the pipe - rubber hose to gauge to block - and pipe - rubber hose to gauge, plus the rubber hose that connects the two together.

- When I tried to hook the pipe to the block I found the brass fitting to be 7/16ths while the one that came off the block (the broken one) is 3/8ths. What to do?

I checked the Moss UK books and they are indicating an adapter for the block. Should I remove the existing fitting on the block and replace it with this new fitting/adapter? is it possible to simply repair the old hose?

Any help will be appreciated. This is the only this standing betweeen me and the use of this car.

Mike Pennell
 
Truck on over to your friendly auto supply house and see if they do not have a fitting that will do the job.

That line needs to be in good condition or you dump oil all over.


Someone educate me a bit. Is the 1275 oil pressure fitting at the block the same as a 948.
 
I believe you will find all A-series oil pressure taps in the block are the same. Since the block is English you would expect the threads to be 1/8 BSPT. However, I have never had a problem using 1/8 NPT male fittings in the block.

The gauge should have 1/8 BSPP (straight) pipe threads. The seal is normally made using a small, flat fiber washer between the gauge nipple and the inside of the female hose fitting.

Truth be told, you can buy the universal copper gauge line kits from the auto parts store and use that to plumb your gauge. Put a couple of wraps of Teflon thread tape on the back of the gauge and fit the female fitting that came with the kit. Put some Teflon tape on the kit's male fitting and thread it into the block. When you run the tubing from the block to the gauge, make sure you create some loose coils in the tubing (like a spring) between the block and the firewall. Those loops absorb the engine movement so the copper does not fatigue.
 
Exactly Doug, that was going to be my next bit of advise if needed.
 
you guys made me go dig through my stuff for a 948 set up less hose. Note the ends of the lines with the little thing so hose will not come off.

Red end goes to gauge other to block.
 

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Thanks guys for all the input. I'm going to order the block adapter from Moss.

For the life of me I can't explain why that male end fitting on my block is smaller that all the standard parts.

Mike Pennell
 
Very informative guys---now, whats a guy do if you have everything except a decent hose!!???

Kurt.
 
yes, I too would like a hose. However, I am holding out for one like the original with the braided outside.

Good ideas welcome.
 
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