oil drain plugs

[tahoe healey]

I've heard of using teflon tape when re-sealing the drain plugs to ease removing them next time. Does the tape hold up in the engine heat and is it a good idea? I'm changing engine and gear box oil this weekend and I was considering this.

 

[Dave Russell]

Take your choice. The seal is actually between the plug shoulder, gasket, & pan so it doesn't affect the seal & wouldn't have much effect on friction. If you use tape don't let excess get inside.
D

 

[Steve]

Actually, Loctite have a product.....a bit like dental floss to look at....that has the same effect as Teflon tape but without the possibility of pieces breaking off and floating through the engine.....works very well, and can be used in steam pipes, so temperature in the sump of an LBC should be a walk in the park. I'll find the product number and report back.

 

[Steve]

Found it a lot faster than I had been expecting. It is Loctite 55, product number 35082. You can look it up on www.loctite.com

 

[ThomP]

If the copper washer looked like the "thing" I took off my car the first time I changed the oil, it is no wonder that it leaked. A new copper washer and not so much torque on the plug when you re-install the drain plug usually solves the removal and leakage problem. Many people really tighten the drian plug, because it will keep the plug from leaking even with a damaged washer. With an LBC the engine is gonna leak anyway and probably not at the plug, so why make the removal difficult by giving it that extra turn?

 

[Dave Russell]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ThomP:
so why make the removal difficult by giving it that extra turn?<hr></blockquote>

Probably out of fear that the plug will fall out.
D

 

[CDK]

There is alot of thought that Teflon tape is a sealer when in fact it is best used as a lubricant,often between disimalar metals to prevent galling(sp).I like a little dab of RTV for both sealing and thread lock.I think we all have a tendencie to crank down on that drain plug like it was under pressure or somthing.Has any one ever had one fall out and I not talking about the ones we have all forgotten to put back in.
CDK

 

[Dave Russell]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by CDK:
Has any one ever had one fall out and I not talking about the ones we have all forgotten to put back in.CDK<hr></blockquote>

I have never even heard or read of a plug falling out, but the idea still makes me nervous. Racers & aviation stuff is even safety wired.
D

 

[tahoe healey]

I was also addressing the gear box plug. The Red Line stuff is $8.00 a Qt.! The plug sticks out a bit and by the way where do you find a wrench that fits that squair hole?

 

[Dave Russell]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by tahoe healey:
I was also addressing the gear box plug. <hr></blockquote>

I guess that you can use any sealer or tape that you want on the threads. The plug isn't hard to get out with a good tool.

The gearbox & differential plugs take a 7/16 square wrench. I just used a short 1/2" square drive socket extension & ground the male end down to 7/16.
D

[ 10-04-2003: Message edited by: Dave Russell ]</p>

 

[ThomP]

Norm Nock of British Car Specialists sells them. He gets them from:
<https://www.britishtool.com/>
I have one of the wrenches for the transmission/overdrive nut. It works a treat. If you'd like to barrow it and don't mind paying the postage to and from Lake Tahoe, I'd be glad to loan it to you.

The fellow at Britis Tool is very nice. He sells other speciality tools for Healeys and other LBCs. He sometimes lists them for sale on ebay.

 

[ThomP]

Oops! The square wrench! Oh. Like Dave, I made mine. I used 7/16 square steel stock. Snap on sells them, they are quire expensive by my recollection. I also purchased one from SK Tools, but it didn't fit. The trusty piece of square steel works just fine.