-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
oil cooler
- Thread starter DRH
- Start date
Share this page
I installed one when I was in CO.. climbing hills outside Denver in 3rd @4500-5 in the middle of the summer heat etc.. I installed it standing on end next to the left radiator support. Accordingly, punched a hole in the hood support frame similar in size to the heater/air supply on the opposite side. Then I formed some AU to direct the air flow to the cooler fins..I think it helps because the oil pressure was steady even under severe heat....Wouldn't use a cooler otherwise..not needed for normal driving... In fact it does more harm than good if the oil isn't brought up to temp ASAP to burn off moisture accumulation ie. sludge formation... Now that I'm WA, I seldom use it. It's covered 90% of the time.
electric fan is a slam dunk.. I even took the water pump cooling fins off(not needed) ..works great...Biggest feature is that added a temp. sensor that keeps the fan running if neccesary for five minutes after shutdown to allow the engine area a chance to cool abit... NEVER experienced vapor lock..
electric fan is a slam dunk.. I even took the water pump cooling fins off(not needed) ..works great...Biggest feature is that added a temp. sensor that keeps the fan running if neccesary for five minutes after shutdown to allow the engine area a chance to cool abit... NEVER experienced vapor lock..
Oh! On the subject of engine water cooling..I installed a two way replacement valve at the back of the head that replaces the valve for the heater core.(I wanted a heater too) The first openning goes to the heater core, the second connects to a hose that runs behind the radiator to the inlet of large heater core off a truck. Then the core outlet hose is spliced to the water pump intake hose.
Note: The factory racing teams back in the day concluded that #4 piston didn't get enough water circulation (950 block) which they solved by adding a hose from the heater opening as mentioned above into the temp gauge openning on the radiator core.
Now, a 1275 in a BE fitted with a deep vane water pump has larger intake dia. by at least 1/4" over that of BE's bottom radiator outlet..This combination is a perfect fit for our heater core addition. plumbing aside of course. This added cooling gives you that much more... and might save #4 headaches down the road. I've run this setup for years.. sorry no pic's right now as I'm currently in the middle of a rerestoration.
Note: The factory racing teams back in the day concluded that #4 piston didn't get enough water circulation (950 block) which they solved by adding a hose from the heater opening as mentioned above into the temp gauge openning on the radiator core.
Now, a 1275 in a BE fitted with a deep vane water pump has larger intake dia. by at least 1/4" over that of BE's bottom radiator outlet..This combination is a perfect fit for our heater core addition. plumbing aside of course. This added cooling gives you that much more... and might save #4 headaches down the road. I've run this setup for years.. sorry no pic's right now as I'm currently in the middle of a rerestoration.
Don, I think the Datsun is easier to keep cool than british engines. Just from my observation. I still would want to upgrade a bit just because you are running a bigger engine. Quite a few on this forum have had there stock rad recored and a few are running Geo radiators. Pretty easy and cheap. Then there are some more expensive aluminum rads that work well and would probably do more good than a oil cooler.
Kurt.
Kurt.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
Oil temps tends to get higher based on contiuned high rpms, that why we run them in the race cars, all they do on track is high rpms. I always amazed looking at my oil temp gauge in the race car on the cool down lap where the rpm drop and we're just toolingback to get in the pits, it's no uncommon to see the oil tmep drop 30-40 degree when the rpms drop. I think for most street driven car, an oil cooler is not necessary, but if one is going to drive the car very spirited or do alot of highway travel, then a oil cooler is a good thing and no one will argue about the temp in Southern AZ, not a bd ide for a car being used in such a hot climate.
On the Mazda Rotary engine's oil cooler, yep a rotary engine get the oil pretty hot and desparately needs a oil cooler, and stock they normally have large oil cooler like the one shown, perfectly the norm for a Wankel engine.
On the Mazda Rotary engine's oil cooler, yep a rotary engine get the oil pretty hot and desparately needs a oil cooler, and stock they normally have large oil cooler like the one shown, perfectly the norm for a Wankel engine.
