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Oil Cooler - Repair or Replace?

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davidk

davidk

Jedi Trainee
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My 74 TR-6 has a 5 year old oil cooler from TRF (Flotec brand). It has recently started leaking on one end. Is it possible to repair an oil cooler similar to how a radiator is repaired? What type of shop would do the repair? My first thought was just to buy another cooler, but I hate to do that if it can be easily repaired.

Thanks for your help, David K.
 
Don't repair it, replace it. Anything is repairable but an aluminum oil cooler is not easy nor is it worth it. Did the leak occur from a crack somewhere near the bottom where it mounts? This is the most common place for a leak. Check out a previous post I made concerning an oil cooler and how I mounted it. Those things are fragile and vibrations will crack them.
 
Thanks guys. I'll order a new one. (I think it's been at least a week since I've ordered any parts!)

David K.
 
B&M makes a nice polished cooler. It is rated for use as an oil cooler and is about half the price of one from the usual sources. Jegs or Summit sell them. Check the transmission coolers.
 
When you replace it (recommended), get one of these mounting kits from Earl's. Instead of replying on the flimsy bottom bracket, it sandwiches the cooler preventing vibration from, well , causing a leak. Summit, jegs, etc all carry them for around $32. Or fab you own. Point is that you support it from top to bottom instead of bottom only.

https://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/large1716ERL.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I think the bracket's a great idea. I'm now looking at the Earls cooler from Summit (413_ _erl - the two blanks are the AN fitting size) and the bracket that goes with it (1813erl). The coolers can be ordered with different size male AN fittings. Does anyone know what size fittings connect to the Flo-tec coolers? Are they even AN fittings? I like the quality of the Earl's, but I wasn't planning on changing out the lines too.

David K.
 
Here's the Earl's cooler bracket. I recommend using stainless allthread and stainless fasteners. Note how I bolted everything tight and to the skidplate. You can lift my car from this bracket, almost. Anything less than stainless will rust badly in this area.

cooler.jpg


I had to slightly grind on the bracket for the hoses to center over the existing holes in the bracket, plus cut back a little on one of the flanges. Not a problem. It also comes with rubber mats top and bottom for stable cushioning inside the bracket and on top and bottom of the cooler.
 
Thanks, Bill. Did you also put nuts under the top bracket? I can't tell from the angle of the picture.

David K.
 
Yes. First I torqued down the bottom really tightly. Then I torqued down the top and brought the nuts up to it, as you guessed to make everything really taut without hurting the rad.
 
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