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Oil Cooler and Cleaning

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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I've noticed with Bugsy my '68 Sprite, 1098 w Smoothcase, Oil Cooler that extended time at speed +65 mph, temps go up, oil pressure goes down. Still within proper limits of course but thinking about next year and long trip planning. Anyone had any success in pulling oil cooler, taking to radiator shop to get boiled out and then getting engine temps to stay cooler and oil pressure to stay down up in the 60 lbs area at sustained RPM levels.

As soon as I get off the expressway, temps go back down and oil pressure goes back up after a few minutes so my logic says may be related to oil cooler not really doing the job. Do oil coolers still do anything after 40 years of use and abuse? Or am I better off spending the money on a new oil cooler. I'm thinking lots of nasty stuff embedded in the oil cooler that I really don't want to loosen up and see floating around in the bearings. Thoughts anyone?
 
Jim, if it were I, it would go in the garbage and be replaced. But, before you fault the cooler completely, have you ever had an oil temp gauge on the car??
I think I'd be looking at the entire cooling system, including water pump function, fan, radiator cap, coolant concentration, etc.
On my race cars, I change the cooler after every two seasons, (unless I've had a catastrophic engine failure. Only happened once in the last ten years)I rarely see oil temps above 225F, and water temps normally hover in the 180~190 range, with a 180 stat in there. I actually had to install a thermostat in the 1500 engine, because I couldn't get the water temp above 165F!
Jeff
 
OH it's time coolant was replaced, been in there a few years. Bugsy doesn't have Temp markings on the Engine Coolant just little marks that I've never seen an explanation for. Around town temps are below the N mark at all times. When I get out on the Expressway 70 mph fora long time, Temps rise to probably 2/3 of the way to the little . mark on the Temp gauge. Still in normal ranges and the car has never overheated. If I get off on the exit ramp, temps will drop to below N mark and normal ranges within a minute or two. One blip of the gas will also bring oil pressure back up to 20 lbs at idle. Around town oil pressure is usually 20-30 lbs at idle, 60 lbs at 3-4k rpm.

Again the thought long cruising time at high revs going to someplace where it will be very, very warm. Since VB Specs a 13 row oil cooler at $100 may now be worth even pulling and trying to get old oil cooler boiled out. Might be a wash on price to trade a 40 y.o. 9 row for a new Chinese undoubtedly made oil cooler. Now does the 13 row perform as good as a B.L. 9 row cooler. That is the quesiton.
 
All I run on the race cars is a 13 row. Not an original BMC cooler, but a 13 row nonetheless.
I wonder if you aren't getting water pump cavitation at freeway cruising RPM.
Still, the pressures and temps mentioned <u>are</u> within acceptable limits.
Jeff
 
Jeff,

For a $100 bucks it's not worth trying to get the old oil cooler boiled out. 40 years of crap in there it probably isn't working anymore anyway. Yes temps are within limits. I'm exploring a theoretical maintenance issue and engine longevity issue. How to make the existing engine run and last longer.

I've got a 1098 in Bugsy now. My spare 1275 does not have the oil cooler fitting on hte block. Are the parts interchangable? Can I unbolt from the 1098 and bolt on to the 1275 block when I get it rebuilt. Thinking more power, more power of course.
 
Fitting to my knowledge is interchangeable.
 
Jim, it's a straight swap between the 1098 and the 1275. Are you running an oil thermostat? Oil that's overcooled, or runs below about 165*F will not be hot enough to boil the condensation and contaminants out of it. That's why I run both a thermostat and an oil temp. gauge.
Jeff
 
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