TR2/3/3A Oil Change in a TR3

[JSpears]

I am about to change oil on my TR3. It still has the canister style oil filter. I have never attempted this before. Anything special I will need to know or need? Is this a pretty simple task?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Andrew Mace]

It's potentially a pretty messy job, but nothing too out of the ordinary. One thing to do as you change the filter element: ensure that it came with the correct sealing gasket. <span style="font-weight: bold">Then</span>, make sure that gasket fits properly. <span style="font-weight: bold">THEN</span>, make very sure you completely remove the old gasket (once you're doubly sure the new one replaces it perfectly) before installing the new one.

Other than that, it's like any other oil change!

 

[tinman58]

Pretty simple. But put a big round pan underneath to catch most of the oil. When replacing the cannister make sure the sealing ring is seated properly or you will have a leak. During my rebuild I replaced the cannister with the spin on type, Very easy to change and the filters are at any auto parts store. For me when it is easier to do then I will do it more often.
Dan

 

[TR3driver]

A few more caveats :

Sometimes there is more than one gasket already in there because some DPO forgot to remove the old one.

And sometimes you need to guide the canister lip into the groove on the filter head. Normally it slips right in, but if it's caught, don't just crank the bolt down.

Some of the spin-on adapters don't fit properly and must be modified to seal completely. Mine has always leaked a little (but not enough to motivate me to take it back off and find the problem).

 

[bigjones]

Jim,
You are in for a horrible experience.
Get the adapter and then change the oil.

 

[bgbassplyr]

Mechanicing back in the day I changed a LOT of these filters.
Didn't have adapters. As stated above, make sure the old gasket ring is out, clean the recess (rag works or q-tip if really anal), put a little oil on the ring to prevent it hanging on the canister and deforming, place canister into the recess and square it up, THEN screw the bolt in and tighten it. Do not allow the canister turn as you tighten the bolt.

Jim

 

[Russ Austin]

Find some old clothing, a shower cap, rubber gloves and a pair of googles.

 

[mrv8q]

You are in for a horrible experience.

I've kept the original Purolator canister and filter on my '3; I don't think it's <span style="font-style: italic">that</span> bad....
As long as you're diligent that there's not an additional o-ring in there, since this is your first oil change, (I checked mine first with an adjustable mirror), you'll be OK. I'd wear some latex gloves, and be aware you'll be bringing up the full canister full of oil, so if you tip it, there will be spillage... Otherwise, have fun!

 

[TR3driver]

I agree, not that bad. Both canister and spin-on involve a certain amount of spillage, because they are mounted at an angle. The canister probably spills more, simply because it holds more, but you're going to have oil running down your elbow no matter what.

 

[Don Elliott]

To get the long center bolt out, I use a closed-end wrench that has a rotating ratchet on it. It is straight and they are quite thin. I think it's a 9/16" hex head. This wrench will allow you to turn the bolt almost all the way out before the hex head gets too close to the down-pipe for the crankcase vent pipe. To make it easier to get off and re-install this long bolt, I hack-sawed about 1/4" off the threaded end and ground a chamfer about 1/8" along the sides so that it would have a slight point and so it would sort-of self-center when I was putting it back in. By cutting the bolt shorter, I can use that ratchet wrench all the way now before the wrench and the head of the long interferes with the vent pipe. When I'm putting it back together again, the chamfered end helps with the alignment, but I still lie on my back under the car (safely on solid jack-stands) and with a light, I can peer up the top end opening to make sure the pointed end is really going into the threaded hole where it should be.

While the cannister is off, why don't you clean it thoroughly and re-spray it "Teal Green" as they were "originally".

 

[bigjones]

Maybe Jim should do it - as a kind of rite of passage. No cheating - the cannister has to be full of oil before installation!

Wouldn't be too bad if the car was up on a lift and you could stand under there.

As for as the spin-on filter - I duct-taped the plastic filter-wrench-socket onto the filter before installation. Probably a dumbass thing to do but I was thinking it may aid in removal. I'll soon find out.

 

[JSpears]

Thanks for the advice. When I buy the oil today, I will also buy a large bag of kitty litter. I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again,
Jim

 

[tdskip]

Hi Jim - it isn't really that bad. Get the car <span style="font-weight: bold">securely</span> on a lift or jack stands to give yourself some room to work. Stare at the factory manual for a bit and make sure to memorize how the canister bits were installed when you take it off.

You will spill some oil, so kitty litter under the car or flattened cardboard boxes ahead of time is a good idea.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Don Elliott]

Don't believe the joke that was written above about putting back the cannister with it already filled with oil. Put it back on empty. It's a lot easier - no muss, no fuss. And no dripping. Then when I restart the engine with about 7 quarts of fresh oil in the sump, I remove the plugs and crank over the engine on the electric starter till I get the oil pressure up to about 40 psi. This will fill the filter with oil. Then check for leaks under the filter assembly, etc. Then I re-check the oil level on the dip-stick now that the filter has filled. At this point, you might want to add more oil to the engine depending on where you want the oil level to be. I keep mine about half way between the two lines and after 3,000 miles it is at the bottom line.

 

[NickMorgan]

Jim,
I bet you don't need the kitty litter. When I change the oil and filter I use an oil tray (co-incidentally it was sold as a cat litter tray!) that is about 15 inches by about two feet. It is large enough to fit under the drain plug and under the filter. Once the filter housing has been removed I pour most of the oil out into the tray before lifting the filter housing out. It's a nice easy job. Nothing to be worried about and I prefer the old style filter as you can have a look at any residue in the bottom of the housing.
The first time I did this job the previous owner had managed to get two gasket rings in somehow. I removed one, didn't imagine there would be a second one in there and fitted a new one. I then drove the car round to the lock-up I used to use. Then I noticed a trail of oil all of the way back to where I had been working on the car. I now know that a leak such as that will empty the sump in just under a mile!
Nick

 

[Geo Hahn]

...While the cannister is off, why don't you clean it thoroughly and re-spray it "Teal Green" as they were "originally".

Or if you finally do go with the spin-on conversion at least re- paint the orange/yellow/white/whatever filters something approximating that color:

A mirror was mentioned for checking the presence of the gasket(s) -- I use a dental mirror and a bright light. Say aaaahhh.

 

[vivdownunder]

For removing the old rubber seal pocketed inside the filter housing, I use a kitchen meat skewer with improved sharpening of the tip.

Just jab it into the rubber seal at an angle, and voila, out she comes.

Viv.

 

[Don Elliott]

I use a real dentist's pick that I bought at a flea market for a dollar. It's curved to fit into the confined space and it's sharp to sink into the old rubber seal to pull it out. A bit like a fish-hook.

 

[NickMorgan]

I use my grandmother's old crochet needle!

 

[JSpears]

Thanks for all the advise. I actually used a nail to poke out the old gasket. The job was not that bad. I am glad my son was top side holding the canister while I was underneath tightening the bolt. I was surprised how heavy the canister was. It was painted black, maybe with a paint brush.

Thanks again,

Jim