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TR2/3/3A Oil Appearance

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Redoakboo

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I flushed my new radiator a couple of weeks ago and put in some antifreeze.

I just installed a new speedometer and tach cable .I took it out for a drive, carbs sputtered alittle so i came back to the garage. I checked the oil, which is usually very clear. It shows now a milky grey color? Your thoughts??
 
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A breakdown of the fig 8 gaskets can let the coolant into the oil.
But I think Karl has it with the head gasket as you say you had carb issues. May be not the carbs but water in the bores causing miss fire. Was there white smoke from exhaust?
A head gasket can be breached coolant way to bore
Oil way to bore
Oil way to coolant way
All 3
Has coolant level dropped?
You could compression test
And you can test for combustion gasses in coolant
Perhaps the flushing removed crud that was sealing a weak spot.
 
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No white smoke from exhaust and coolant level has not dropped at all . I pulled plugs, black and sooty. Removed valve cover, small signs of milky oil. The engine has just been overhauled so i checked the torque of the head bolts. Some were as low as 75psi. I re-torqued the bolts and will change the oil today. I know you don't use synthetic oil on new engine, what is the best oil to use. I bought some new plugs and will check the compression before I install them.
Thanks for your advise. Dick Vinal
 
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If the leak is in area of no compression, you can probably fix it with a quality sealer (miracle in a can)

The water is on the bottom of the oil pan so loosen the pan drain bolt and see how much water comes out. Is the oil higher on the dip stick because water is pushing the oil up?

steve
 
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Steve,
How do you use the sealer, and brand you would recommend? The oil is alittle higher on the dip stick. I am changing the oil today, with a new filter. Will check the compression after I re-install the valve cover. Dick
Thanks for your help.
 
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Redoakboo said:
Steve,
How do you use the sealer, and brand you would recommend? The oil is alittle higher on the dip stick. I am changing the oil today, with a new filter. Will check the compression after I re-install the valve cover. Dick
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Steve,
I drained the oil pan today, looked like thin grey mud. I put 6 qts of oil in it along with a new filter. I am going to reset the valves tomorrow, put the valve cover back on and check the compression. I have not turned it over yet, not going to start it. With the new oil, the dip stick shows clear oil.
I would like to try a sealer like you recommended but don't know what to look for or how to put it in the engine. Is it called "Miracle in a can" ?

Dick
 
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Get Bars Leak block sealer or a compatible high price and quality product. I think like 10 bucks and read the instructions and follow them to the letter. It goes in the radiator.
steve
 
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sp53 said:
Get Bars Leak block sealer or a compatible high price and quality product. I think like 10 bucks and read the instructions and follow them to the letter. It goes in the radiator.
steve
Click to expand...
Just remember this. At some point water on the engine bearings will harm the bearings. So you are playing a potentially expensive game.
Charley
 
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If you have already changed the oil and retorqued the head bolts go for a short drive and see if the retorque has sealed the leak. If there is still evidence of the milky substance in the oil then you will have to pull the head and change the gasket. Also those rad sealers can sometimes plug up the thermostat.
 
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Hamish Racing said:
A breakdown of the fig 8 gaskets can let the coolant into the oil.
But I think Karl has it with the head gasket as you say you had carb issues. May be not the carbs but water in the bores causing miss fire. Was there white smoke from exhaust?
A head gasket can be breached coolant way to bore
Oil way to bore
Oil way to coolant way
All 3
Has coolant level dropped?
You could compression test
And you can test for combustion gasses in coolant
Perhaps the flushing removed crud that was sealing a weak spot.
Click to expand...
I put the carbs back on, adjusted them. Compression 145-150 all cylinders. Retorqued the head bolts, new plugs and oil.
Fired it up, started on the first click. Ran it until the temp moved alittle off the peg and oil pressure was still 50 . Ran it for 10 minutes on the quick jack. Turned it off. Pulled dip stick and oil was clean as when i put it in.
Obviously 75 ft # of torque is condusive to water leakage at the sleeve gaskets. Will drive for a bit and see if my luck holds out.

Thanks for your help.

Dick Vinal
 
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Dick… you said “the engine has just been overhauled”…. did you do it or a mechanic? If the latter, he rates a phone call. Either way, the procedure is to retorque after x miles. You may be lucky! Jim
 
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After changing the oil, re-torquing the head, adjusting the valves and ran it 10 minutes on the quick stand. Pulled the dip stick, oil clean as when it went in! Four of the head bolts were 75 psi ! The others weren't much better. They are now all at 105 psi.

Hoop Hoop !!
 
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