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Oh the fun of U-joints

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mikecyc72usa

mikecyc72usa

Jedi Trainee
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So besides whacking my hand with a hammer Fri evening while getting the u-joint out of the yoke, I encountered the following:
U-joint from Spitbits. Always good. for whatever reason, one of the bearing caps can't go far enough in to let a circlip be put in. If I push it in, the u-joint seizes up. Got out the calipers, and the u-joint across the top of the bearing caps in the trouble direction is 70 thousands too long. Anyone else ever run into this?

The good news: the rebellious left side rear suspension that had taken it's state of independence too far is back in line. Of course, it sounds like the right u-joint is giving up, as I still have a rhythmic knock when I lift off the throttle. So Sunday I'm replacing that one. Hopefully without hitting my hand or the other hand with a hammer...
 
mikecyc72usa said:
for whatever reason, one of the bearing caps can't go far enough in to let a circlip be put in. If I push it in, the u-joint seizes up.
Click to expand...

Have you pulled the caps back off the u joint? A pin can fall loose and be in the cap.
 
:iagree: as above, it could be a errand pin in the cap.
 
Me three; first thing I'd check. Also inspect the cap carefully to be sure it didn't crack.

I vaguely recall John Kipping talking about thin and thick circlips, but .070" has to mean something wrong.
 
Gliderman8 said:
:iagree: as above, it could be a errand pin in the cap.
Click to expand...

A professional mechanic told me all my spicer U-joints wre defective. I opened one up before i called to complain.

Defective mechanic!!



needle.jpg
 
When I did mine I had a problem getting some of the circlips back in. I had to "thin" some of them using emery paper. After I did that they snapped into place and the joint was not seized but quite stiff. After 800mi they are working out fine. I read on another site of a tip to use a shin made from a beer can if the bearing caps are not tight up against the circlips so I would think they need to be snug. Having said that .070 sounds like a lot.
 
Same here on the cir-clip thickness. Last time I did mine (a while ago) the new clips were just too thick to get a bite on the "last" end. But with the old clips all went together well.
 
The one that was .070 big was impossible to put a circlip on one cap. Got it to work. Today the right u-joint was replaced with more success. So the noise has gotten better. Of course got under and really inspected the propshaft rear u-joint. You guessed it, it's the next to come out. Each u-joint replacement improves the car quite a bit, so I'm hping I can get away with this last one for at least until after I move and have some money. At least the day was productive. Got an exhaust leak welded, (man, I love to grind stuff for prep) checked emissions on my car and found I was all over, and figured out that my SU carbs need to be rebuilt. Got a leak by the throttle shaft. Ugh. Was wondering why I had no power over 4000 rpm in top.
 
I'm glad to hear others have had problems getting their u joints in without binding. I thought I was the only incompetent one. I too now thin the circlips down a bit. I asked my drive line shop if he could get thinner circlips and he said he had never heard of them.
 
I just ordered some HD u joints from good parts for my TR6 drive shaft. I will put them in when I get them, hopefully I wont have an issue. when I get the old ones out I am goint to check the measurements on each old and new and see if there is any difference

Hondo
 
Hondo, that's what we did after the first one. My advice is to pound out the first 2 caps like the manual says, then cut the spider once the diff flange is off. Way quicker. Also, use a good vice or press with some solid sockets as spacers to press the new caps back in. That way they can be centered on the vice, will go in straight, and you'll have a much easier time. Also, make sure the yoke and flange have no burrs from pounding out the caps. I had to file some rough spots down to be smooth again. I also lightly greased the caps so they'd slip in easier. I hope this makes your install a bit quicker.
 
I have a hydrolic press so I wont have to pound on them

I have done it before too, and I did get a needle in the base of the cap on one so I will be careful

thanks
 
well got the u joints out and got to the last cap and it wouldnt go in that last little bit, so now I have to press the one back out, guessing one of those pins got sidways, hopefully I dint fubar it up. a guy said he would charge me 45 bucks to balance it and for 10 more put the u joints in, should have paid the 10 buck more, but I didnt have any issue with getting the clips installed

Hondo
 
Hondo, I avoid the "tipped roller" by starting one cap until it is flush with the inside. Then I put the cross piece in and then push that first cap until it is past the snap ring groove and the cross is close to the other side where the second cap goes. Next I hold the cross towards the side where the second cap goes and fit the second cap over the end of the cross. At this time both ends of the cross are in the caps. Then I push the second cap in while keeping the cross in it. As soon as the second cap is in far enough that I can see the rubber seal I do a visual check that the cross fits into both caps. Then install the first snap ring and finish pushing the second cap in.
 
Well got the cap back off and broke one pin. Tom, yea I see you have the correct procedure and I should have done it that way but I have not done u joints in over 20 years, Live and learn

I thought about using an old pin but not the same length so gonna get another one

Hondo
 
Tinster said:
Gliderman8 said:
:iagree: as above, it could be a errand pin in the cap.
Click to expand...

A professional mechanic told me all my spicer U-joints wre defective. I opened one up before i called to complain.

Defective mechanic!!



needle.jpg
Click to expand...

"defective mechanic" Thats too funny..... all the local shops around here are full of them, even the auto part shops for that matter.
 
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