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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Now is the time for some serious thought.

Just received word that Miss Agatha is supose to be blasted and painted with two part primer on the 5th, yep only a few days away.

Now here is the thought.

Have the underbody, inside and engine room painted, assemble most of the car then do the exterior orrrrrrr, just go for it and do it all then assemble? How many little screwups do you supose I will have when completed?

Ok "Old English White" PPG or Dupont, think I have the numbers for both.

What the heck is Acrylic Urethane? Is this a two part paint?

Do I want clear coat on top?

Do I want clear coat underneeth and in engine room?

Or am I best off useing a two part paint all over? or should I use it underneath and in engine room?

So many questions so few answers?

Dupont paint code is 8207, anyone have the PPG code for Old English White?
 
Call the manufacturer's product information number. These people are usually very knowledgeable and honest about what each of their product lines are best suited.

I know you are interested in originality, but you might consider a product called Lizard Skin for heat/noise reduction. It is sprayed on the interior over paint or suitable sealer, and is much thinner than dynamat.
https://www.lizardskin.com/

My dad just used it in his latest streetrod, and it will be going in my next LBC.
 
Jack, when it comes to Paint you can go hog wild with all the options and I'm not even talking colors. When we restored the Huffaker MGB race car we had a very nice budget to work with, the paint and cosmetics were of the upmost concern to the owner.

The car was blasted to bare metal. When it was time to paint, her's a list of what we use:

Epoxy primer on the under body, engine bay, inside the trunk and interior area.
All interior areas if you will was painted with acrylic enamel with hardener. This being a race car all the interior was bare painted metal, no carpet, etc. so touch was eaiser with this paint should we scratch up the interior. But you could use the line of thinking with a street car, the engine bay, boot, etc. doesn't need to be as shiny as the outer body and acrylic enamel is cheaper than base/clear, easier to touch up and still really tough paint that shines great.
On the exterior we used top of the line Dupont Durachrome base/clear system. We used polyurathane two part primer, I like this stuff for outer body because it's a really thick primer that hides a lot of little stuff and is very workable for prep sanding. Epoxy primer i do not car for on exterior body due to the fact it goes on and dry very hard and while being the most durable doesn't hide the liitle stuff as well as the poly urathane. As for the base/clear paint, it's so much deeper and shinier than single stage paint, but this shows up better on some colors than other colors. My 67 MGB GT is Old English White, nice color, and it is acrylic enamel with hardener and looks great.
Jack you do a whole car paint job like this and expect your paint supply bill to be flirting with a grand. You painting yourself?
 
Interested in originality, yes. Does it have to be orginal, no.

I think it should look original but otherwise who cares. It is not a concours car or a trailer queen. My hope is just a good driver and looker for nice days and smiles.

In fact without changing the apperarance of the car I would ask myself what the factory would have done if they had had todays products and tech.

That said, are disks all around ok, sure. Alternator, sure. Spin on oil filter, sure. Two part paint, sure. Clearcoat, sure. 1275 eng and trans, sure. Flaired wheels, noop. Seats with headrests, noop. Roll bar, sure. Well you get the idea.
 
I like that train of thought, you get some modern upgrades and gain some reialblity and drivng enjoyment, but still retain the proper look.
 
Hap, who does your paint?
 
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