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AweMan

AweMan

Jedi Knight
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I ordered new clevis pins for the dual brake/clutch M.C. Push rods for my 56 Tr-3 from V.B. catalog page 112 top of the page, 52 - 56 Tr-3. Part # 7-279 NOTED: "A" {Fits Original Push Rods Only"} NOT!
The original push rods on this car has a different sized hole on each side of each push rod. {<span style="font-weight: bold">and .... before you ask .... NO the holes are NOT worn or elongated</span>}
I`m no artist but here is a pic similar to what I think I need.
Clevispin.jpg

Does anyone have any idea where I could get the clevis pins I need?
Does anyone have a pre 56 Tr that they could take a pic of the clevis pin { disassembled of course} and post here?
Yea Yea I know .... I could weld the holes shut and re drill but i`m NO fan of redneck re engineering things especially on my baby!
I really don`t want to use the "Cut to fit" Push rods {see statement above}
Anyone have these as spares? {I think they were also used on the early MG`s and others as well, anything that uses the dual brake/clutch M.C.}
Thanks for any and all response.
 
Kerry, can you give some approximate dimensions ? What you describe sounds exactly like the later cars, where the threaded hole is approximately twice the size of the unthreaded hole.

Also, what did you get from VB?
 
Randall:
The Pins I received from V.B. are just straight pins {NO shoulder} 1 & 1/16 long X 5/16. The center of the cotter key hole is 3/16 from the end the hole itself is 1/8.
On my original Push Rods the small hole { measured with a tape measure} appears to be real close to 5/16. {The V.B. pin fits this hole slightly loose but close enough} The larger hole {measured the same way} appears to be 3/8. The larger holes DO NOT appear to have threads as I originally thought. The shoulder on the 5/16 pin would need to be 3/8 dia. by 1/8 wide. The total pin length would need to be 1 inch minus the head or 1.1/16 total { eg 17/16.
Sorry about the approximation measurements But a tape measure is the best I can do at the present time.
 
Kerry,
Here's my guess: Based on your Comm. # you have a Lockeed brake/clutch master cylinder. The pin that you got from VB is for Lockeed, but what you are describing as what you need is from the Girling system. The difference is the clevis pin assembly as fitted to the fork at the end of the push rod.
It looks like a Girling fork has been fitted to a Lockeed push rod.
Take a look at the CLUTCH page in your Moss catalog. I'm looking at Moss catalog # T24-105, page 32.
 

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Yea, I`m beginning to wonder about these push rods I have. I know they are original to the car but there is the possibility that someone before my ownership "modified" them for one reason or another. The car is a 56 but I acquired it in 63 and as a basket case at that! When I got it, it had seats styled like the Tr-4 seats although they did have the seat pans like the Tr-3 has. {With square top seat backs}. These push rods are the Lockheed style with NON removable fork ends {they DO NOT screw off of the rods themselves} But as I mentioned someone may have drilled the one side larger in order to accommodate the Girling style clevis pins. There are NO threads, Just a 3/8 hole instead of the 5/16 like on the other side.
I see several options now.
I can weld the larger hole shut and re drill to 5/16 or I can order the Girling clevis pins and hope they will fit and do the job.
Or I can order the "Cut to fit" Push rods and modify then to do the job
I was just hoping beyond hope that someone could tell me if what I have is correct for my car, and if so where I might get the shouldered clevis pins I seem to need.
It is no big problem, I just didn`t want to have to go to the effort to modify things in order to get a functioning Brake/Clutch system.
But one must do what one must do I suppose.
Thanks for the input.
 
The Girling pins are definitely threaded where they go into the larger hole.

Does seem odd to me that, if the Lockheed pins are simple straight clevis pins; why don't they have a "standard hardware" part number?
And why does no one carry them?

But I only had one drum-braked TR3 (which was plenty to convince me I didn't want another one), and I don't recall what sort of pins it had.
 
They do carry them Randall According to V.B., T.R.F. and Moss the Lockheed pins are a straight shank 5/16 x 1 1/16 clevis pin. They can be bought at any hardware store. AND that is what I recieved from V.B. when I ordered them. Of course there is NO discription or otherwise I would have known they would not work on the push rods I have. Which leads me to suspect that they {these push rods} have been modified by someone other than me for one purpose or another.
I will muddle through this problem eventualy and come to a reliable solution, i`m in NO hurry.
I`m buying a new T.I.G. welder in the spring so this will be a good first project for it {welding those 3/8 holes shut}
I know ... I said ... I didn`t want to do that ....BUT ... IF it is the best solution .....
 
Ok, what am I missing ? My TR2-3 SPC shows the pins as being Stanpart 105129, while a 'standard' 5/16" clevis pin would have a part number like PJ88xx (with the xx indicating the length between the head and the center of the hole). TRF shows 105129 as NLS; while my cross-reference catalog shows no supercession for it. Seems like if it were available at any hardware store, they would carry it as well.

The older Moss catalogs list the same pin for all TR2-3B, so I don't exactly trust them to have the listing correct.
 
Moss shows it as { Page 32 } #45 part# 582-590
V.B. shows it as { page 112, 52 - 56 Tr-3 top of the page }#7 Part# 7-279
T.R.F. doesn`t list it as far as I can tell.
As I said it is a standard 5/16 x 1 1/16 straight shank pin. {at least that is what I received when I ordered it from V.B.}
My A.T.V. uses this same pin to hold the snow blade on the frame brackets I buy them at Fastenal.
The P.N. is UNSPSC Code: 31162409
I have bought them at the A.P.S. too from the Doorman assortment.
In any case they will not work for my application until I modify my push rod forks.
The question in my mind is have the push rod forks I have been drilled out for one reason or another or are they as original.
The reasoning behind my post is hoping someone would have a definitive answer.
Someone that has a dual master/brake/ clutch set up on their car
MIGHT take the time to take a look and let me know one way or the other.
 
Aint ignoring...just taint my kinda car. I'd help, if I could, though.

Come on now, who's gonna step to the plate?
 
AweMan said:
{at least that is what I received when I ordered it from V.B.}
Click to expand...
And that's the point I'm trying to make; I suspect that VB (and Moss) are selling the wrong part for this application. The folks at TRF are just a little more careful about supplying the right part (and not offering anything when the right part is not available).
 
And
 
Hmm... While I have a later TR3A, I may have the pins you're looking for. I purchased a lot from ebay that included some "strange" forks and pins. I'll take a look tonight.

Just to make sure I understand correctly, you have a Lockeed System with a fork that has one 3/8 hole and one 5/16 hole and the fork is attached to the rod (and is not removable). Neither hole is threaded. The pin length should not be less than 1 inch.
 
Rlandrum:
Yea that is what I have, the Lockheed dual brake/clutch system. Yep my push rods forks have one 5/16 hole and one 3/8 hole NO threads in either hole and you are correct the forks themselves can not be removed from the push rods. And the pin length should be close to an inch.
Even if the push rods you have are the Lockheed and correct for my car and complete with clevis pins. I would be interested in , purchase, swap, trade, you name it P.M. me or email with details. {my email can be found in my profile}
 
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