• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Off to paint!

First pictures after bodywork and epoxy primer...getting excited!
Rut
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 100
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    39.3 KB · Views: 95
Woohoo!
 
Lookin' good!
 
Talked to the body shop today and they will be mixing paint and shooting a test panel within the next week. I'll head up when they're ready and make sure it's a good match for the original Iris Blue. He said the body work was done and it looked very good, but required a little more welding than he thought it would. Can't wait to see it!
Rut
 
Talked to the body shop today and they will be mixing paint and shooting a test panel within the next week. I'll head up when they're ready and make sure it's a good match for the original Iris Blue. He said the body work was done and it looked very good, but required a little more welding than he thought it would. Can't wait to see it!
Rut

more pics....nothing quite like shiny new paint....even the smell is intoxicating....
 
Just got back from a visit to the body shop and we addressed a few things while I was there. The blue on the interior and underside are a tinted primer and not the final blue, but gave me a good idea of the finished product. The underside, floor pans, boot floor, transmission tunnel, and inside the rockers will be sprayed with the poly undercoat to help with sound deading and heat transfer as well as rust prevention. The pictures are after the body has been blocked several times and final paint should go on at the end of this week or next week and it's possible that I might get it back before 2016!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 81
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    37.2 KB · Views: 82
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 76
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 80
Nice!
 
Looking great Rut. Thanks for your help.
 
Update, paint is on and looking good!
Rut
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    21.3 KB · Views: 69
Rut, I'm curious about how you got the body to the body shop on the rotisserie? Also see it on stand....is the bare body light enough to move that easily? BTW, looks like a very solid BE done right!

Kurt.
 
Kurt,
I built a wooden stand that was about 1" taller than the car body was on the rotisserie and rolled it on the trailer for transport. I also left the rotisserie connected to make it easier for the body shop to do their thing. The tub is light enough for me to pick up either end and move around without a lot of effort. I plan on bringing the car home on the stand with rubber cushions between it and the body to prevent paint damage. Once home I'll install all of the under body parts while on the stand and turn it into a roller or put it on jack stands. I've included a couple of pictures showing the wooden 'cart' I built.
Rut
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    78.2 KB · Views: 63
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33.4 KB · Views: 66
Looking good, Rut!
 
Drew,
Thanks, need to see more pictures of yours!
Rut
 
Kurt,

In the event you want to send to the Body Shop to paint on the rotisserie you would need to modify how you mount in the rear. Rut and I used taillights as a mounting position in the rear. Would be tough to paint while it was supported that way. Someone else provided pictures of Rotisserie where they used Bumper Mounting holes as well as an extra supporting member attached to the front gas tank stud. A setup like that would give a painter full access to the rear of the BE. My plans are to get all body prep done, undercarriage painted/Truck bed liner coated and then return to Jack stands for painting. Now it could be a roll about built from 4 x 4's that fits under the cockpit so I could transport easily or even roll down the street 4 doors to a buddy who does painting in his garage. Got two guys on my street who could potentially paint or it could be a roll my own effort with Interlux Brightsides. That's too far down the road to figure out at this time.
 
Thanks much folks....I'm asking since I have my Lotus body on a rotisserie and plan on paint in the spring. I have to go many miles to a good body shop but I can definitely see the advantage of the car being on a rotisserie for painting. The headaches of getting it there had me thinking of painting it myself but I've only ever painted tractors and the job's I've done on them I wouldn't want on a car!

I guess a little lumber as you have done and a lot of tie downs would do the job to get it to the body shop. [50 miles to the one I'd like to use]

Kurt.
 
Kurt,
The body shop I'm using is a little over 3 hrs away and I will bolt the car to the cart and strap the cart and car down to the trailer. The rotisserie assembly will end up in the barn with one of the engine stands coming home to put my 1275 on. I think I used at least 8 ratchet straps as well as tying the bottom of the cart to the trailer. I bought a new 14' single axle trailer with a dovetail and a HD ramp tailgate and added an ATV winch to the frame ($60 at Cabelas) and it works perfect for what I want. My youngest son borrowed my 12 utility trailer a year or so ago and I figure it's his now.
i don't know how fiberglass responds to being bounced around while supported at each end, so I'd probably take it off the rotisserie for transport and reassemble once there.
Rut
 
Well the fiberglass body is bolted to a couple of angle iron's for support on the rotisserie and if I was to build a 2X4 frame to held support it in transit I think I could get it to work. I'll have to have some more suitable ramps to roll the small dolly wheels over.

Your BE looks great BTW. Mine needs a lot but hope to get an engine done for it this winter as well. Its leaving an oil slick!

Kurt
 
Kurt,
I would use the HF 8" pneumatic tire/wheel combo next time instead of the casters...much easier to roll.
Rut
 
Back
Top