• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Of fuel gages

Share this page

That indicates the movement is fine, but one or the other of the induction coils is damaged in some way. The coils are wound with enameled copper wire thinner than the diameter of human hair... Nisonger makes 'em good as new.

Unless you wind stream-casting flies for a living and have a Doctorate in electronics having built transformers for PCI NIC's as your thesis material, I'd recommend shipping it off to them.

As always: Just my opinion.
 
To verify the testing procedure -- I put + on a 9-volt to the "B" terminal, and the - on the 9-volt to the gauge case. The needle shot up to full. Is this how the testing is suppose to work for a quick check? This is on an original Bugeye gauge.
 
Yup. Yours would seem to be fine, Drew.

A quick ohm out using an ~analog~ VOM and the values on "the other post" will tell definitively.
 
Doc -- can you describe that second test a bit more in-depth? I'm a little lost when it comes to electronics testing, but I'm pretty sure I've got an analog multi-meter around somewhere...
 
Well, don't I feel just the fool of the century! I was testing it wrong, across the two terminals.

It works when I do it as Drew described, jumps from 0 to F in a heartbeat.


D U H !
 
Don't feel bad, Chris. I was putting the 9V across the 2 lugs, with no effect. Then I went out to the car and noticed 3 wires to the gauge, one being a black ground wire (I remembered that went to the center post mounting bracket). So on a whim I tried jumping to that, and presto!

We both got to learn something today. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Well I got to learn that, at her advanced age of 48 years, ncbugeye's fuel tank is almost as clean on the inside as it was when she was shipped from the factory. There is barely a trace of any kind of discolouration inside that I can see through the sender-unit hole. And the sender unit float is still 100% bright and polished.

I hope nobody is going to say "coat it anyway", because it means I save the $$$ I was going to spend and my coveted Minilites draw nearer day by day. YAY!
 
Finding working, clean, and reusable parts is always a nice thing! As you point out, more money for the fun stuff.

I've seen the junk in my fuel lines, though, so I'm not too optimistic about what I'll find in Tunebug's tank.
 
No need to coat if all ok inside, just means no water was ever in there to mess things up. Good deal.
 
Jack, am I to understand the bit I sent you DOES work?
 
Yep, but only to 1/8 mark even with what ever voltage. In the car or off the car and a 9 v batt.

The adjusting nuts were loose so I have tried all kinds of settings on them as well.
 
Back
Top