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OD, Trans., pumpkin

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RestoreThemAll

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I'm working with a MG mechanic to rebuild my BJ7 OD, transmission, and pumpkin. We took the covers off the trans. and pumkin and they look like new. Even the sych. is in great shape. I don't want to split the OD and the trans. Is it safe to assume that the OD is in the same condition as the other units? The odometer has 53K on it. Should we just clean it all up, put in new seals, clutch, etc.. and put it back in the car?
 
RTA, You didn't say if you had ever driven the car prior to the tear down to inspect. Did you have a problem,noise grind or anything that would indicate a problem. If it where mine I and I had not driven the car I would do as you said with the seals and clutch and test drive it before tearing it appart for a total rebuild.Bob
 
I bought the car around 1973, drove it for a few thous. miles over a coupld of years and then stored it badly. There weren't any noises that I recall from any of the units.

See attached pics
 

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  • 6011-Pumpkin.JPG
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It is hard to tell from the picture but I cannot see the springs that hold the 3 balls onto the three selector shafts (upper picture below the hand on the right side of picture in the three holes in the case). The are often left out and can cause major damage if not present. PO left mine out......
Every thing looks good. Did you find any metal flakes in the bottom of the gear box (a magnet is suppose to catch some in a little screen cup. If there is gear or fork damage you will find the pieces at the bottom of the box.
TH
PS. leave the overdrive alone and attached if you are not having trouble with it!
 
A couple things you could look at are the rubber buffer pad in the bell housing where the 3 rods enter and bump against.
I used .055 red butyrate gasket material purchased at a plumbers supply house to make this buffer and held it in place with a little silicone. Also check the shaft and the bushings on your clutch fork for play. You can buy a kit from moss or you could make one from .500 steel shaft and source the bushings from a bearing store. It is however tough taking the taper pin out of the shaft. If you do this use caution not to break the bellhousing. If you run a small drill bit through the taper pin it comes out alot easier. You also may have to ream the bushes once installed so the for doesn't have excessive drag. It should be able to pretty much free fall back and forth by flipping the bell housing over.You can make a tool for installing the new bushings by utelizing the old shaft and old bushes to tap the new ones in place. The screw at the top of the shaft is just used to index the hole for the clutch fork.
Hope some of this info is useful.Bob
 
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