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TR2/3/3A Nuts for Backing Plate TR3
- Thread starter mgedit
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I have heard that at least some (if not all) the "metal locks" are potentially damaging to the bolts, which could make the bolts unsuitable for reuse later. I suppose that's not the worst thing in the world for bolts themselves, but there are some suspension applications with threaded shafts that are a permanent part of a given piece (e.g., rear vertical link on a Herald/Spitfire swing axle).
Can anyone expand on this -- or educate/correct me?
Can anyone expand on this -- or educate/correct me?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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That's the factory setup (although I don't see the flat washers), so IMO they are fine, as long as you replace the nuts every time.
But part of your periodic maintenance should be to check them for tightness. If you do find that they are backing off (due perhaps to excessive vibration), you could switch to something that grips better, like the metal lock nuts that Don is talking about. I use those on driveshafts, because I have had problems with them backing off, over time. (Which likely indicates I should get the driveshaft balanced.) But the metal ones wear the bolt threads, so you should replace the entire bolt after several on/off cycles. So I still mostly use Nylocs on the suspension.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=bqacwu
PS, Andy, I hadn't seen your question when I typed the above. But yes, you are right on the mark. The "metal locks" wear the bolt threads every time you install/remove them, so eventually the bolt needs to be replaced. That would make them a poor choice when the "bolt" is part of a larger assembly. If you need better locking in those situations, I'd suggest drilling for a castellated nut & cotter pin.
But part of your periodic maintenance should be to check them for tightness. If you do find that they are backing off (due perhaps to excessive vibration), you could switch to something that grips better, like the metal lock nuts that Don is talking about. I use those on driveshafts, because I have had problems with them backing off, over time. (Which likely indicates I should get the driveshaft balanced.) But the metal ones wear the bolt threads, so you should replace the entire bolt after several on/off cycles. So I still mostly use Nylocs on the suspension.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=bqacwu
PS, Andy, I hadn't seen your question when I typed the above. But yes, you are right on the mark. The "metal locks" wear the bolt threads every time you install/remove them, so eventually the bolt needs to be replaced. That would make them a poor choice when the "bolt" is part of a larger assembly. If you need better locking in those situations, I'd suggest drilling for a castellated nut & cotter pin.
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Thanks, Randall! In turn, I hadn't seen Mike's photo when I first replied, so I was "speaking" a bit more generically. :wink:TR3driver said:
