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nuts and bolts
- Thread starter tomshobby
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swift6
Yoda
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The studs that came in my kit were too short. The nuts would not fully engage their threads, even when torqued. They only engaged about half of the threads in the nuts. How that happens when the head and the block have had material removed from their respective mating surfaces...I don't know. The head was the the proper thickness for a TR6 head (minus the skim that it received. The block had even been decked (A lot!). Still, the studs were too short. I spent a long time on ARP's tech line measuring each stud with my calipers and talking to the tech representative. He said they were all measuring to within spec of of their records. Yet, when installed, they were too short. He could have been looking at the wrong line in his reference, I don't know.
For the record... I have not heard of others having this problem with the ARP head stud kit. I have ARP bolts inside the engine and everything was fine with them.
I have had to remove the head twice since I put this engine together. It was VERY nice to remove the bolts and simply lift the head away without having to lift it past the studs first. Or having the studs bind the head while trying to remove it.
For the record... I have not heard of others having this problem with the ARP head stud kit. I have ARP bolts inside the engine and everything was fine with them.
I have had to remove the head twice since I put this engine together. It was VERY nice to remove the bolts and simply lift the head away without having to lift it past the studs first. Or having the studs bind the head while trying to remove it.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........
What are you going to do Tom?
Mine will not be here until the 22 or later, so I'm curious what the proper length should be.
Shawn, did you keep the measurement for the needed length?
If not. perhaps Tom can match one of the new ARP studs against his original studs and allow a few .000" for the stretch factor.
I believe that the depth into the block would be as important as the length exposed above the deck. I'm curious to see what Tom finds with his.
What are you going to do Tom?
Mine will not be here until the 22 or later, so I'm curious what the proper length should be.
Shawn, did you keep the measurement for the needed length?
If not. perhaps Tom can match one of the new ARP studs against his original studs and allow a few .000" for the stretch factor.
I believe that the depth into the block would be as important as the length exposed above the deck. I'm curious to see what Tom finds with his.
OP
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
Brosky said:
Now why didn't I think of that? Paul, I will do it on Monday. Helping my daughter move into their new house this weekend.
Got my wiring back in today and a few other things. It looks like I will be ready for the engine next week. I will have to get moving on the thing I am doing for a clutch shaft/fork fix. If it works out there will be another how-to post with pictures coming.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I will have to get moving on the thing I am doing for a clutch shaft/fork fix. If it works out there will be another how-to post with pictures coming.[/QUOTE]
Please do. I'm anxious to see how that new pin that you designed and machined works out. Another chapter for the Wiki.
BTW, you did know about the stud comparison. You were just testing to see if I was really paying attention to this thread. Like when Shawn snuck in those really nice hex bolts.
Please do. I'm anxious to see how that new pin that you designed and machined works out. Another chapter for the Wiki.
BTW, you did know about the stud comparison. You were just testing to see if I was really paying attention to this thread. Like when Shawn snuck in those really nice hex bolts.
G
Guest
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Don't know why you guys are having all this trouble. My ARP head studs fit right in, even with a skimmed head. Came with 12pt nuts and the studs have hex-headed recess cut into them form ease of insertion and removal. I have about 1-2 threads exposed after torquing twice.
The first set I ordered from a large west-coast vendor was ARP, as advertised in their catalog, and was almost twice the price and were for the wrong engine. Went directly to ARP and got my chromoly studs direct.
The first set I ordered from a large west-coast vendor was ARP, as advertised in their catalog, and was almost twice the price and were for the wrong engine. Went directly to ARP and got my chromoly studs direct.