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Got the bugs worked out of the motor, now the clutch won't bleed out. Getting no more bubbles. Could the slave cyl be bad? Never had a problem with it till now. Ugh!!!
Was just thinking. I moved the push rod on the clutch side up while trying to but the clevis pin in the brake side. Wondering if I tore/pinched the cup seal on the clutch side?
I believe the answer is yes. One tip, getting the top bolt tight on the slave is an absolute bas_ard to do as you found out in trying to remove it. Racers trick to to cut a slot in the top mounting flange so that top bolt can be most of the way tightened. Slave slips under the top bolt via slot cut with Dremel tool, and bottom bolt gets tight, and then top bolt gets final tightening. Will save you from the 1/4 flat at a time tightening sequence.
Nope you need the 3/4" one for the disc brakes. Contact Peter C. at (800) 362-1025 and ask him for a price.
Or you can have yours resleeved for less money in stainless steel or brass.
If you can get the 7/8 one for cheap and in a hurry you could get by with it till you come up with another option. I had a bug eye converted to disc's and still running a 7/8" master. It would work but required some right leg strength!
Well I bought a new one from Victoria's. Just installed it and ran new clutch line to the new slave. Will bleed tomorrow and hopefully go cruzing this weekend with a little luck.
It seems I've been forgotten, but as you any many others well know, the is no better solution and no one does it better. The units I provide will last the longest and perform the best over a very long period of time.
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